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  #1  
Old 04-24-2008, 08:37 AM
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Question rebuilding brake caliper need advice

My parts for my 123 brake caliper repair kit come tomorrow. I have searched and read some posts about the rebuild. My question is the kit looks like a 6 piece deal. 2 metal rings, 2 dust covers (that go on the outside) 2 thin "o" rings. I know the caliper has two pistons, one on each side. My plan is to remove each piston, to clean the parts off completely, clean out the surface rust, but does the thin o ring go just inside the cavity where the piston is inserted. I may discover all this when I take the old one out. I am just trying to be prepared. Also, would it be Ok to use caliper lubricant where needed, or some posts have suggested using clean brake fluid?

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  #2  
Old 04-24-2008, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spugeddy View Post
does the thin o ring go just inside the cavity where the piston is inserted.
The seal fits in a groove in the caliper bore. It will be obvious when you remove the piston. If you bought ATE kits, they will have detailed instructions. Contrary to the instructions, I would recommend that you install the heat shields on the pistons before you install the pistons in the caliper. It's a lot easier that way when you don't have the special tool.

The instructions will call for caliper grease to be applied under the dust boot.
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  #3  
Old 04-24-2008, 11:22 AM
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I see the price of calipers has gone up a since last time I needed one The rebuild kits for under $20 bucks are looking attractive. Whats the chances of success with doing the rebuild? If its been frozen up wouldn't it be damaged, I remember honing my VW wheel cylinders and rebuilding those.
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  #4  
Old 04-24-2008, 12:01 PM
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I just rebuilt my 123 ATE and took her out yesterday. Every thing works fine. Not hard to do. I did one side @ a time in case I needed to see a intact one. Read all you can on how to do this as there are some helpfull tips. Take you time and you too can rebuild your Calipers. Good luck.
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  #5  
Old 04-24-2008, 01:14 PM
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$49 bucks for a rebuilt caliper from O'Reillys with limited lifetime warranty.
I've had rears on my wagon for 3 years and they have worked well.
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:29 PM
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I have always bought "loaded" rebuilts from or local "West Bay Auto" last week they said they couldn't find them. Think I'll take the calipers from my "parts" cars and rebuild them myself. Any preferences Bendix or ATE?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2008, 05:53 PM
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I spent $50 and got bigger vented rotors and calipers with bigger pistons and nearly new pads on them Why would anyone rebuild?
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  #8  
Old 04-25-2008, 12:44 PM
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$50 a side

$50 a side is more than I wanted to spend right now for this leak.

If I have to pull the trigger on something bigger, I would like to do what you did though ...

For $58 shipped I got the repair kit, all new heater hoses (I needed them bad) a AT filter kit, a fuel filler surround, and a oil cap gasket.
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

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  #9  
Old 04-25-2008, 12:45 PM
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not sure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
I have always bought "loaded" rebuilts from or local "West Bay Auto" last week they said they couldn't find them. Think I'll take the calipers from my "parts" cars and rebuild them myself. Any preferences Bendix or ATE?

Not sure but most of what I saw had the ATE priced slightly higher. Does more $$$ mean better? Not sure...
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is
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  #10  
Old 04-28-2008, 08:13 AM
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all done thanks for all your help

All done. It took me a little longer than expected, but now I know what I am doing.

The only thing hard for me was getting the second piston out without using compressed air.... the first one came out by pumping the brakes, but I took the caliper loose when one was almost fully out, and the second one was just barely out. Everything looks like it was in good condition, so with a little light sanding, brake cleaner, and shallow socket I had them back together.

The socket I used to compress the piston back in the bore... it was harder than I expected. I put the shallow socket in the center of the piston, to get my c clamp to compress it in.

I am happy I am only in it for $15 and a little of my time.

PS I bled the brakes using a jack stand propped against the brake pedal. It was a lot of back and forth, but it was a one man brake bleed system....

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