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  #16  
Old 12-08-2007, 10:39 PM
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aklikm,

Any logical reason for changing both filters at the same time

P E H

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  #17  
Old 12-08-2007, 10:48 PM
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I change my spin on about every 15 - 18 thousand miles.
I think I have only changed the clear inline maybe twice in the last10 years. never anything in it.

Had the engine start surging ever so slightly one time in Nevada. There
is a whole not of nothing between Yearington and Carson City. finally
made it to a NAPA for a filter. it was really surging time I got there.

That tought me to keep a spare on board. but having a filter w/o tools
can be a problem too.

Too bad the spin on isn`t like my RACOR that is on my pickyup. clear
bowl with a drain with a simple internal filter to change.

Charlie
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  #18  
Old 12-08-2007, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post

Too bad the spin on isn`t like my RACOR that is on my pickyup. clear
bowl with a drain with a simple internal filter to change.
I installed a Stanadyne FM100 filter/water separator upstream from the fuel pump. It has a drain to get rid of water and the filter element can be replaced without tools.
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  #19  
Old 12-08-2007, 11:15 PM
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Forty years ago MB had filters with a drain plug so water could be drained out. Why they changed to the ones on the engines now, who knows.

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  #20  
Old 12-09-2007, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges View Post
aklikm,

Any logical reason for changing both filters at the same time

P E H
First, you are already there. You are going to have to remove the pre-filter to see if it is clogged. With that in mind, you are already going to have to change the O-ring once you open it up. The pre-filter already in your hand. It is made of plastic and can crack with age. So, why not change it for $3.56?
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  #21  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:17 AM
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aklim,

I can tell if my filters are clogged with out removing them. All I have to do is drive up a hill.

Where is the o-ring on a primary filter, or a the secondary filter for that matter? My prefilter is held on and sealed by 2 worm gear clamps. But maybe yours is different.

Sounds like U change your filters about 10 times as often as I do. So since both of them cost about $10, that's not $3.56, its About $100. Maybe U have money to throw away, but I don't.

AND filters get more efficient as they get loaded and are good up to the point they impede engine performance.

I got a winter car (300SD) and never changed the prefilter. It lasted 70,000 miles then I changed the engine to another car because 1st one was rusted too bad. Guess what, same filters are still in there.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

P E H
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  #22  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges View Post
Sounds like U change your filters about 10 times as often as I do. So since both of them cost about $10, that's not $3.56, its About $100. Maybe U have money to throw away, but I don't.
Wow, $100 whole dollars over about 10 years, that must be at least 0.02% of the operation cost for that car. This is really too silly to discuss.

Just change them when you want and don't worry about it.
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  #23  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges View Post
I can tell if my filters are clogged with out removing them. All I have to do is drive up a hill.

Where is the o-ring on a primary filter, or a the secondary filter for that matter? My prefilter is held on and sealed by 2 worm gear clamps. But maybe yours is different.

Sounds like U change your filters about 10 times as often as I do. So since both of them cost about $10, that's not $3.56, its About $100. Maybe U have money to throw away, but I don't.

AND filters get more efficient as they get loaded and are good up to the point they impede engine performance.

I got a winter car (300SD) and never changed the prefilter. It lasted 70,000 miles then I changed the engine to another car because 1st one was rusted too bad. Guess what, same filters are still in there.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
It is the getting clogged part that I don't know how to tell.

On the 606, the prefilter has an O-ring which you don't reuse. There are 2 O-rings on the main filter. No work clamps or what hot. The pre-filter is held on by a bolt.

I change them every 30K. $3.56 was just the cost of the pre-filter. That was why I said it costs you a little more to change it if you are changing the main filter. Yes, I know it costs more. However, I have got bad fuel before and I don't want to risk getting stuck somewheres. Especially when the wife drives it and commutes to work (70 miles one way). She won't know how to change a filter if it jumped up, slapped her in the face and gave directions. With that in mind, we don't even carry anything in the realm of spare filters in the car. I am paying for the convenience of not having a breakdown because the filter is so clogged one day. If it clogs suddenly, you can tell. Much harder to tell if it is gradually getting plugged till it doesn't flow. It would be impossible for the wife to know unless it dies and a yellow light comes on.

You sure about that? How does it get more efficient if it doesn't allow as much flow? That is what K&N says about their filter but I am not sure about that.

And I know someone who drove their car and never changed oil. Just added oil when necessary. After 3 yrs, she would trade it in. I'd rather do maintenance and have done with it. It allows me to see the condition of the filters and if they start getting too dirty, I start trying to figure out where we have been to fuel up. Usually it is about 3 different stations.

I prefer maintenance. I had a truck that had 70K on it. It ran perfectly. No issues. Why did I change the plugs? Just to see what happens. No diff other than I picked up a mile or two per gal. Plugs were ok but gap was a little too large.
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  #24  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Wow, $100 whole dollars over about 10 years, that must be at least 0.02% of the operation cost for that car. This is really too silly to discuss.

Just change them when you want and don't worry about it.
2 or 3 cups of Starbucks a year I can live without. I'd rather spend money and have peace of mind as opposed to saving the money and having to wrench in the middle of nowheres. After all, how often does something breakdown in your garage? Most of the time, the breakdowns occur in the middle of nowheres. Do you want to lug tools, filters, oil, parts, etc, etc around? I'd rather drive and forget it. Will breakdowns occur? Sure. Can I stop it altogether? No. can I minimize it with preventative maintenance? I think so. If the wife broke down int he middle of the road because the filter got so clogged it won't flow and she didn't notice it till then, what would it cost me, time wise and fuel wise to go to fix it especially if it is in bad weather?
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Last edited by aklim; 12-09-2007 at 11:45 AM.
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  #25  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:53 AM
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Craig,

Would U take a $100 bill tear it up, burn it or just throw it away? I think not. But if U would, please send it to me (before U destroy it). LOL

Because that is just what U are doing by replacing filters that don't need to be replaced.

Its no wonder why there are so many parts houses making money selling auto parts with people like U.

P E H
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  #26  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges View Post
Craig,

Would U take a $100 bill tear it up, burn it or just throw it away? I think not. But if U would, please send it to me (before U destroy it). LOL

Because that is just what U are doing by replacing filters that don't need to be replaced.

P E H
How much is peace of mind worth? You saying you change your filters ever 300K whether they need it or not?
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  #27  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:56 AM
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While in India I change both my pre and micro every oil change that is 5000 miles. Diesel quality in fringe areas makes it imperative I do so, sometimes frequently.
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  #28  
Old 12-09-2007, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
I would keep an eye on the pre-filter if it starts to look dirty change them out. Otherwise I'd say every 3 or 4 oil changes would be fine.
I'm new to diesel cars. Is the prefilter in some sort of housing that is clear so that it would be both easy to see and obvious if it was dirty? Where is it?

Thanks.
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  #29  
Old 12-09-2007, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
I'm new to diesel cars. Is the prefilter in some sort of housing that is clear so that it would be both easy to see and obvious if it was dirty? Where is it?

Thanks.
Mine isn't. 84TD is a 124 Chassis? It looks like you have a clear pre-filter. You can see if your pre-filter is clogged but you still cannot see if your main filter is clogged.
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  #30  
Old 12-09-2007, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
I'm new to diesel cars. Is the prefilter in some sort of housing that is clear so that it would be both easy to see and obvious if it was dirty? Where is it?Thanks.
Look down on the driver's side of the engine, near the fuel injection pump and you'll see the fuel line go to a small, clear plastic filter, then on to the main filter. That's the pre-filter - if it has a bunch of crap in it, change it - when you buy them get a couple, they cheap and take less that five minutes to install.
To change all you need is a short phillips screwdriver: Disconnect the output end (nearest the main filter), raise the filter up so diesel doesn't run out, install the new filter - connect it to the output hose - tighten everything down. Then pump your bleeder pump 30 or 40 times, then start the car. Even if you are going to change both filters, still do this first or the car will be very hard to start.

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