engine shut off - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ichbineinekrous · #1 10-10-2007, 12:18 PM

Just bought my first 240D this weekend, an 83. It was originally automatic but was converted to 4-speed manual. The PO didn't hook up the vacuum lines correctly, thusly, the engine won't shut off and the door locks are frozen in the unlocked position.

Am I correct in assuming that the vacuum should be routed from the brake booster line, through a T and up to a valve on the side of the ignition switch, such that when the key is turned off, vacuum is sent to the ip, to a port behind the VCV? If I pump the mity vac quickly, I can get the engine to shut off, and I'm getting 24 inches of vacuum off the booster line.

Also, I thought that even if there was no vacuum to the door locks, they were still manually operational. I cannot even force the locks down, in fact I already broke one on the lock posts trying to push it down.

Otherwise it seems to be a good, strong, rust free ride. I thought these cars were supposed to be slow, I was going 85-90 mph on the way back from Rhode Island to North Carolina this weekend.

300GD · #2 10-10-2007, 01:21 PM

It sounds like you've eliminated the vacuum pump, brake booster and VCV, which is great. But the door lock actuators could be leaky enough to prevent the system holding vacuum and this could keep the VCV from operating properly.

My 300D had a similar problem; it was shutting off slowly. I recently replaced the leaking RF door lock actuator which took care of the problem, although the system still doesn't hold vacuum more than a half hour or so after the engine is shut off. I still have a slow leak somewhere else.

rrgrassi · #3 10-10-2007, 01:37 PM

The locks should be connected to a one way, two port valve, with a yellow line and a yellow w/grey stripe connected to it. The yellow w/grey stripe runs to the vacuum keeper or resevoir. The yellow runs to the drivers door.

There should be valve operated by the driver's door to control the rest of the locking system.

There is a sticky on the forum for vacuum diagrams. They are very helpful.

The engine shut off

Sbean · #4 10-10-2007, 04:00 PM

Try manually locking the driver's door first, then the others. It talks to them. Steve

blindwolf · #5 10-10-2007, 04:27 PM

You might need to lock the drivers side door with the key to get it into the lock position and then you can manually lock the others.

sokoloff · #6 10-10-2007, 09:10 PM

Mine has been converted to a manual also and I'm also in NC. Everything works properly. If you need pictures or if you want to come by and look at mine, feel free.

ichbineinekrous · #7 10-10-2007, 11:45 PM

Thanks guys, this forum rocks. I got the engine to shut off twice, with the key, but can't get it to shut off now, all I did was tighten the connections and put a new 4-way connector in. This is how its routed: From the brake booster line into a 4-way connector. From there

1: what seems to be a check valve that goes from one port to two. Off the back of that is a yellow w/blue stripe and a brown line that goes to the ignition switch.

2: a green line with yellow stripe, don't know where it goes.

3: a yellow line- must be the door locks

Coming back out of the firewall is the other brown line which plugs into the top of the IP. Also, the second port which comes off an orifice on the booster line is plugged.

Sokoloff- If there's a way you could post a pic, that'd be great. I'd love to come take a look if I can't figure this out by this weekend though.

ichbineinekrous · #8 10-10-2007, 11:50 PM

BTW, I got the door locks working. I had to take the driver's door panel off, and fiddle with the lock mechanism and lube it up, and as long as the engine's running I can lock and unlock all the doors with the key or by pushing the driver's door lock down.

Am I correct in thinking that I can just block off the line going to the door locks in order to troubleshoot the engine shut-off? Or do both need to be working? Thanks again.

toomany MBZ · #9 10-11-2007, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ichbineinekrous

Am I correct in thinking that I can just block off the line going to the door locks in order to troubleshoot the engine shut-off? Or do both need to be working? Thanks again.

I unplugged the check valve for the door locks, no power locks, but worked manually, engine shut off with key, did not before.

Sbean · #10 10-11-2007, 02:03 AM

Keep "plugging away" at it... Steve

sokoloff · #11 10-11-2007, 01:03 PM

Here are a couple of photos from my 240D. I'm not sure which lines you'd like to see. Let me know if you want something specific. I don't think there were too many changes needed when mine was converted.

jkoebel · #12 10-11-2007, 01:33 PM

Your actual vacuum shut-off valve might be leaking as well, you should try pulling a vacuum on that with a Mityvac or something and seeing what happens. If it shuts right off, it's good...if not so much, then it probably needs to be replaced.

ichbineinekrous · #13 10-12-2007, 09:21 AM

Thanks sokoloff for the pics...I am almost certain at this point that I have a leaking shutoff valve, or intermittently leaking. With nothing connected vacuum-wise but the supply line to the ign. switch and the return to the IP, and 23" of vacuum, I still get nothing, not even a stumble.

Regardless of a leak at the shut-off valve, shouldn't my mity-vac read 0 vacuum when the key is turned to the off position. My understanding of the valve in the ign. switch is that it closes off the suction to the shut-off while the key is in the ON position, and in any other position opens to allow suction to go the the shut-off valve. When my mity-vac is connected inline with the supply line to the ign. switch I read 23" vac., and when the key is turned off nothing happens, reads 23".

On a separate but related note, does anyone have a good pic of his/her throttle linkage, preferably 81-83 240D owners. I've been searching all morning and can't find a good pic. The PO did some funky shiznit to the linkages and I can either adjust them to have full throttle arm travel, or have the ability to turn the motor off with the stop lever. But not both.

rrgrassi · #14 10-12-2007, 10:24 AM

How are you connectingthe mity vac? It is tee'd or is it hooked up like the vacuum consumer?

If you remove the vac supply from the shut off valve and connect it only to the mity vac, what does it read. With the engine running. it should read nothing. when in the off position, the mity vac should then read the 23", but since the mity vac is hooked up instead of the shut off valve, the engine will keep running. If you are reading 23" to the mity vac with the ignition on, and 0" when the ignition is off, then it sounds like the vacuum connections are reversed.

It is possible that the PO replaced the ignition part and hooked the vacuum up incorrectly.

ichbineinekrous · #15 10-15-2007, 11:10 PM

I'll check that...I know I reversed the lines, but not sure if I did it while the mity-vac was teed in. I'm pretty sure at this point that the actuator pod inside the IP is the culprit.

On a related note, I'm struggling with my door locks. I have all the door panels off and the carpet up. All the 4-way connectors seem like new, and I can't get the door locks to open or close by pumping the mityvac on either the red or green striped lines. Does anyone know the correct methodology in troubleshooting the door look system?