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  #1  
Old 02-10-2006, 01:47 PM
98E300TD
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Southern Calif
Posts: 37
98 E300TD injector leak

I have a 98 E300TD with 172K miles. When the car engine temp gets below 60 degrees (ie left outside all night), the front injector leaks where it bolts into the injector pump. Does anyone have any experience on whether this can be fixed on this year engine by changing the seals. If you have experience, is this something that someone with moderate engine repair experience can do. I have rebuilt engines (ie rings and bearings).

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 02-10-2006, 02:51 PM
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You're not making much sense, but I guess you're talking about the injection pump elements that carry fuel to the injectors through the metal pipes, correct? There are rubber o-rings and copper washers that need to be changed if there's a leak. It's a rather delicate operation and care must be taken to keep the internals clean, but it can be done by an intermediate DIYer. Using the search on this board will reveal more details of this operation.

BTW, are you sure your car is a TD? That would be a diesel wagon. I'm guessing you have the sedan which would be labeled only as a D.
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2006, 05:27 PM
98E300TD
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Southern Calif
Posts: 37
Injector pump leak fix

Thanks for the help. I was talking about the connectors between the injector pump and the metal injector lines. From what you are saying, it sounds like someone that is more of an expert should do this repair. That is what I was thinking too.

I have a friend that bought the same model and year car (ie diesel) and when he got the leak, the dealer said the pump could not be repaired. He paid $1350 for a rebuilt unit (ie parts only). He then picketed Mercedes dealer and MB Germany paid him back.

All the references I have to the designation on the newer E300 diesel have the TD on the end to designate 'TurboDiesel' rather than the station wagon.
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  #4  
Old 02-10-2006, 05:44 PM
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Those are called the delivery valves, and while it's a delicate job, it's totally within the realm of a do-it-yourselfer. There's no need to pay hundreds to have this done unless you really don't want to do it yourself. You'll need a special socket to loosen the delivery valve holders which can frequently be found on Ebay. The o-rings and copper washers are cheap.

TD has always been the Mercedes designation for a diesel station wagon. What reference shows it as turbodiesel? I see people getting confused about this all the time. Some people use DT to mean diesel-turbo, but it really is just D whether it's a turbo or not.
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2006, 06:04 PM
98E300TD
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Southern Calif
Posts: 37
E300DT not E300TD

U B right.

I just looked at my owner's manual. I have an E300DT; I thought is said E300TD. Thanks.

I have a general question about glow plugs, especially with the newer cars where the glow plugs stay on for some period after the car is running; I was told this was to help reduce polution.

I drive 45 minutes to work on the freeway. I leave the car for 3 hours and then drive it at lunch. The outside temp stays around 75 degrees. Before starting, do I need to wait until the glow plug light goes off? If I don't wait, does the glow plug curcuitry not come on? I want to extend the life of the plugs, more because of the inconvenience (ie that manifold on top) than because of the cost of the plugs. Maybe you have some tips on this.
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2006, 06:09 PM
deltajetfixer's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Sharpsburg, GA
Posts: 276
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevek2020
I have a 98 E300TD with 172K miles. When the car engine temp gets below 60 degrees (ie left outside all night), the front injector leaks where it bolts into the injector pump. Does anyone have any experience on whether this can be fixed on this year engine by changing the seals. If you have experience, is this something that someone with moderate engine repair experience can do. I have rebuilt engines (ie rings and bearings).

Thanks.
Courtesy of per eriksson when I did mine.

You need six (6) of each:

O-ring: A 017 997 41 48
Copperseal: A 004 997 45 40

I think it was like $10 for all?

Rick Miley posted an EXCELLENT glowplug replace DIY that details how to get the intake manifold off.

Buy the splined socket http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4512 and do it yourself. I also used the experience as an excuse to buy some new SK metric crowfoot sockets for undoing (and retorquing) the injection lines.

Do ALL SIX at once and check the condition of all the clear plastic fuel lines while you're at it. I think the cost for all of them was around $40. You may also want to replace the cotton braided return lines "daisy-chained" between the injectors. Phil at Fastlane can set you up with it. I had to buy it at The Stealer for $50 for two meters!!! He probably can beat that.
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Last edited by deltajetfixer; 02-10-2006 at 06:14 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2006, 07:21 PM
Diesel Giant's Avatar
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I believe that pump has a copper washer that will stop the leak. It is common on the 617 engines.
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  #8  
Old 02-10-2006, 07:51 PM
98E300TD
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Southern Calif
Posts: 37
I know what to do

Thanks for all the help. I have a complete list of parts and one tool.
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  #9  
Old 02-10-2006, 08:25 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Location: Greenfield WI, USA
Posts: 8,514
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevek2020
I have a general question about glow plugs, especially with the newer cars where the glow plugs stay on for some period after the car is running; I was told this was to help reduce polution.

I drive 45 minutes to work on the freeway. I leave the car for 3 hours and then drive it at lunch. The outside temp stays around 75 degrees. Before starting, do I need to wait until the glow plug light goes off? If I don't wait, does the glow plug curcuitry not come on? I want to extend the life of the plugs, more because of the inconvenience (ie that manifold on top) than because of the cost of the plugs. Maybe you have some tips on this.
You glow it and it goes off and you crank. After it starts, the GP stays on for a bit.

If you do this, you will now wear out your starter faster. All you save is a few seconds because the GP would still be lit. IMO, it is a good idea to take the plugs out once every year or once every two years because it tends to stick in there and it can break off. At which time, you are now looking at a head removal.

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