My sunroof stopped working while I was pulling new speaker wires through...

Taking apart the switch, I see there are 4 wires connected to my sunroof switch. (Blue, Green, Black, and a thin black wire with a copper end.) Is there supposed to be another small black wire with a copper end on the bottom of the switch like the one that is on the top of the switch? It looks like there COULD be one. It looks just like the top (except for the fact that there is no wire stuck into it).

Anybody know what fuse controls the sunroof, and the rating on it is?

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The black lead with copper is the illumination lead which if you turn on the lights you will see light coming out the end....I am sure if you turn on the key one of those 3 remaining wires should be hot (12v+). If it is not you should check the fuse for the sunroof. The remaining two wires should be the open and close for the sunroof and should only be hot (12v+) with the switch in the up or down depressed position.

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83 300CDTurbo 307,000
2005 Honda Element 266,000
56 Nash Ambassador Country Club Special 34,000(under restoration presently)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=125099

As best I can tell from my wiring diagram, the black wire (contact 1) is the power feed from fuse "d". It looks like fuse "d" should be 16 amp. The blue (contact 4) and green (contact 2) wires go to the motor, one to open and one to close. The diagram also shows a brown ground wire on the switch (contact 3). Do you have a contact 3 on the switch? Did you disconnect the ground somehow?

I just looked at a spare switch I have, and there definitely should be 4 wires connected to the switch. From what I can see from your photo, the missing (brown) wire should be attached to the middle of the switch, on the opposite side from the black wire. Is there an empty connection there?

Now that I look again, I see that both black and brown wires are wrapped in that one black covering. I have all four wires (black, brown, green, blue) connected to the switch.

I tested the resistance of the brown ground wire by putting one end of the tester into the hole at the switch, and touching the other to the ignition. There was a reading (changed from 1), so I believe that it is grounded alright.

When I had someone to help, he told me that when I operated the switch, it produced 14V one way, and -14V the opposite switch position. What I gather from that is that current is getting through, but it isn't grounded.

So, it seems that even though the ground wire to the switch is good, and the current is good through the switch to the motor, the switch is not letting the GROUND connection get through?

So... it's the switch? I'm just finding it hard to swallow the coincidence of the switch going bad at the same time I pulled wires through.