I didn't see the answer to this question and I second it. As I slow down sometimes I get a big CLUNK towards the rear of the car. Is the flex disk a likely culprit?

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

The flex discs are sinister. They are solid rubber discs and won't generate a sound......even when close to failure. But, if they do fail, you're in for a bit of a disaster.

Is the clunk accompanied by a downshift?

20 years or so ago, my 1976 240D lost a flex disk. It sorta sounds like a torque converter that broke free from the flywheel. when you accelerate, you hear a LOUD thump, and everything is fine until you hit the brakes, then you hear another thump although not as loud.

To remove sturborn flex disks, I remove all the bolts (6 or 8) depends on the flex disk, if the disk can be removed by hand great, if not, you can roll the car with the gear selector in park, or set parking brake and puth the car in drive and be ready to turn the car of quickly, as soon as the flex disk brakes free, the tranny will keep turnong the driveshaft even when the brakes are applied, option one much safer.

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Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet.

Tapping on the metal inserts broke my disks free with no effort. Prying on the parts didn't do a thing. I would not recommend using the engine to help.

As for clunks when slowing down, I'd check the CV joints and the center U-joint and support bearing. I second Brian's comment; you won't get any sound from the flex disk until it gives way.

I couldn't tell you for sure, but it would be around the time that I SHOULD downshift....


to check the CV joints... would I just check the axles for any play?

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

If there is free play, they're bad. Also ensure that they don't make noise when you turn one the wheel back and forth with the rear jacked up. Of course, check the boots first.

Clunking 1992 300D broken axle shaft
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=184972

I have a bad inner boot on one side and a bad outer boot on the other side... now what? My dad tells me once they are contaminated it's just a matter of time before they fail, even if I do add a new boot.

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

Your dad is correct. You are better of buying the CV shafts from CVJ in Denver.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

what would that run, and if I can't afford it, how much time might replacing the boots buy me?

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

Around $300 for the pair, IIRC. Maybe a little more.

Rebooting a bad joint will not buy any more time. Once they start getting noisy, they are on borrowed time, as the damage has already been done.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

they aren't noisy at all and haven't given me any problems but it seems these boots have probably been bad sine I bought the car in Feb


but before I run my mouth I had better go check for play

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

Once they split, the lube gets flung out, and water and dirt, grit, etc are allowed in, resulting in the moving parts getting ground down.

If they have not been split open, then rebooting and relubing is a viable option. It will be more labor intensive than just swapping them out though.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Results of a bad front flex disc failing. Damage and lots of $$.

Dave

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Here is something I always wanted to know...

We all know when disassembling the drive line we need to mark it so it goes back together properly. If a flex disk or a u-joint fails, how do you get the proper lineup since there was no way to mark it, as it disassembled itself violently?

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D