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#1
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How to service self-leveling?
Sorry of this has been discussed before. I did a search and didn't find the answer and it's not in the "How-to" sticky (nor in the online factory manual -- the full instructions didn't make it in my download attempt). I want to know how to drain and flush the hydraulic fluid in the self-leveling system on my wagon. Can anybody help?
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'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
#2
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I recently did this,
I don't know if this is the "right" way but I connected a piece of cleear tubing to the bleed screw on the control valve that attaches to the rear sway bar fired up the engine and opened the valve a little untile fluid started comming out. While this was bleeding I slowly added fresh fluid to the resevoir. My old fluid was so dark that it was easy to tell when I hit clean fluid. It takes a little running around to do it this was. You can do yourself a favor by pulling as much of the old out of the resevoir and adding fresh on top before you start so there is less to purge. There has to be a better way-be sure to never let the pump run dry! Good luck |
#3
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From this thread:
Quote:
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#4
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Hey Randy,
Do you think a fluid change itself would make a difference in the operation of the SLS?
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#5
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I doubt it. but maybe the new accumulators had something to do with it. Why replace them unless they were leaking.
Perhaps the filter change was the reason for improvment...the old filter could have been so clogged that almost no fluid was pumping. But just new fluid? nope.
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1987 300TDT 1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap 1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5 |
#6
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Quote:
__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#7
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Alternate method
I too recently did this job, but in a different way.
I had to replace the feed hose from the resevoir to the pump anyway, so I did a filter/fluid change at the same time. I'm certain it was the first time ever for the car. I used pretty much the same approach as described for flushing the power steering fluid on the DIY page. As mentioned already, remove as much old fluid from the resevoir as possible before you begin. Mine was already drained empty. Furthermore, I wiped out the 20 years of accumulated dirt from the empty resevoir, and filled it with a liter or so of fresh fluid. I disconnected the hard metal return line from the cap (I believe you need to do this anyway to replace the filter) and put it into a clear 2L soda bottle. I started the engine and let the pump run until the return line spit out clean fluid, making sure to keep the resevoir topped up. This was about 2 months ago and I haven't had any problems since. |
#8
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Thanks for the replies. This looks easier than I thought.
A related question: It looks possible to change the car's rear ride height by changing the length of the linkage on the positioning valve in back. My question is, should that linkage be made longer or shorter to raise the back of the car a bit? I laid on my back under the car for a while the other day trying to figure this out and decided to just "ask the experts" before I fool around with it!
__________________
'81 300TD turbo <<sold 12/05 to another diesel nut |
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