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#1
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Hey Yall...thinking of purchasing a 1974 280 W114 and wondering what sorts of issues are typically problematic with them or that which should be inspected prior to purchase?
Also compared to a W123 and W116 how will the ride be? Smooth & Cloudlike? How crazy difficult are parts to find for it? Do the 1974's have 3 pt front seat harnesses? Is the steering column adjustable? Is this fuel injected? Does it have power steering? ANY & ALL feedback is appreciated. THANKS! Last edited by Gigi007; 10-07-2021 at 09:44 PM. |
#2
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not fuel injected. From the factory, it has a Solex 4A1 carb, which is an upscale clone of a Rochester quadrajet, with none of the charm and reliability. If the car is running well and is reliable, it's because the carb has been replaced.
If the car has been maintained, the ride will be very pleasant and comfortable. Mercedes didn't skimp on that at any level of their product range. If the car hasn't been well maintained and you want that grace back, you'll be upgrading suspension parts. Parts are very findable new from Mercedes. This site sells many too. As of 1973, all cars sold in the US have 3 point seat belts in front. They may or may not be retractable and and as mindless to use as modern ones, but between them and the car, they should keep your and yours safe. Steering column is not at all adjustable. Power steering is there. If you are physically small like my mom, you might find it a little formidable; "truck-like" in the words of my friend Bob, so it's not one-finger-steering like some old chevy's, but the steering shouldn't cause you grief. Share pictures. Price usually depends on cosmetics. Like paint, brightwork and intact plastic & interior bits (and that it passes a safety inspection of course). Problem spots include underside rust (it's unibody, no frame), the aforementioned carb, complications due to lack of maintenance. And of course, underside rust. -CTH |
#3
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The W123 was quite an advancement in overall tech compared to the W114/5. However, the W114/5 rides and drives quite well compared to the W123. I had an early 70s W114 250 that wasn't overly stiff but it was capable of handling undulating pavement roads at highway speeds with ease and was comfortable on the expressway.
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#4
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Check the windshield seals for dry rotting and cracks. If they are cracked, there is probably rust underneath, could be significant enough to need some serious restoration or simply walk away (I know I'm late to the thread).
Suspension bushings, voltage regulator, rocker panel rust, spare tire well rust, window regulators. Also, you want to ensure the heater blower in the dash works. Mercedes bought a fan, then designed the car around it. Replacing it is an unholy pain in the butt, necessitating removal of the center console under the dash, all the controls, the heater core, a bunch of shrouds and tubes for the vents, and of course, the fan itself. I love my 220D so much more than my old W123 300D. It just feels like a nicer car in my opinion. And mine is a zero-option car, no power anything. I'm using my abs, and arms when parallel parking. This is something that ensures that I keep tire pressure up too. Phil Forrest
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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend. "The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests." Tom Abrahamsson |
#5
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Check for rust under the front floor mats and check for rust under the rubber/plastic mat in the trunk. Frequently water gets trapped in the trunk to the sides, and also causes rust in inner and/our outer body panels just behind the rear wheels (sorry, I forget the exact name of the body panels low down which are behind the rear wheels).
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
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