W115 fuse box diagram with amperages?

[Phil_F_NM]

I've been searching high and low for which amp fuses I stick into which spots on my 1972 220D. It has the factory layout under the fusebox lid but all it says is what position controls what electricals. No amperage information.

Anyone know of such a map or just have a cheat sheet? My 220D is what my friends have called a "zero options" car. No AC, no power windows, no power anything besides things that a normal, very basic car would have.

Currently, the wipers don't work, reverse lights don't work, fresh air / heater blower doesn't work, clock doesn't work. Everything else works fine.
I know I probably will be chasing down some electrical gremlins or bad switches/resistors/motors but I want to start at the fusebox first before I start ripping apart the dash...

Thanks all,
Phil Forrest

[MAKDUFF3]

I can give you the info from my 1975 300D. they are as follows

Fuse #1 is the first one most frontwards in the box there are 12 fuses total in the box

#1, 8 amp, warning buzzer, auto antenna, trunk lamp reading lamp, hazard warning light standing light (r) and (L) and fuel shut off valve

#2, 16 amp, passing signal light, radio, window wiper , cigar lighter

#3, 5 amp, heater fan

#4, 8 amp, horn, emission control, carb heater, delay switch, turn signal lamp

#5, 8 amp, combined instrument, stop lamp, back up lamp, glove box light

#6, 8 amp, auto trans timing

#7, 8 amp, tail, parking, standing right, side marker lights, hazard flasher dash board lights, licence plate light, shift indicator light, ash tray and thermostat switch

#8, 8 amp, tail, parking, standing left

#9, 8 amp, high beam right and indicator

#10, 8 amp, high beam left

#11, (16 amp, fog lamp) or 8 amp, low beam right

#12, 8 amp, low beam left


that is right from my fuse cover for my 75 115 300d. might be a lot of similarities

[Phil_F_NM]

Thanks.
On mine #2 is a weird short fuse about 2/3 the length of the regular fuses. There is a brass riveted spacer that takes up the length. The fuse is a fat little thing but still rated at 8A. I might pop that little riveted spacer out so I can use a standard fuse since I can't seem to find any little fuses 1/2 inch long.

I'll copy this down though and see if any of the slots jive with my fusebox. I'm sure a few do.

Phil Forrest

[meltedpanda]

not sure its still on here but there use to be a sticky on fuse box information for many different models
I have an old shop manual , I could look there if what has been provided does not help

[fiksilo]

Hi Phil -


Long distant memory by now I know, but I just acquired the same "zero options" 1972 220D, and I am wondering if you ever answered this question re: amperage ratings for the fuse box. I also am trying to debug a similar set of symptoms you describe (no brake light, no fuel gauge, no turn signals, no blower motor, but headlights and windshield wipers work). If you found anything useful in your time, let me know!

[Todd Miller]

You probably have bad ground connections in the trunk. You can't look at electrical connections and determine them to be good. You have to know how to CORRECTLY test them using a digital ohm meter. My suggestion is to locate ALL of the ground connections in the trunk, take them apart, clean the metal of the body where they connect, back to bare metal, clean the eyelet connectors back to bare metal, and re-install using new screws and new toothed washers, with a coating of dielectric grease.

Your blower motor may be seized. You'll have to diagnose that using a digital voltage meter, as well as the ohm setting on the meter.

All bulbs in the car should be replaced and the contact surfaces inside the bulb sockets, both for power and ground (those are 2 different locations) need to be cleaned to bare metal and coated with dielectric grease. Grounds for the front lighting should be dealt with, just like the grounds in the trunk.

All fuses should be replaced with the modern copper strip version, and the tabs of the fuse box cleaned to bare metal. Then install the new fuses with dielectric grease.

[fiksilo]

Thanks Todd - yes it does sound like an overhaul of the grounds is in order. Also on the advice of another thread on here I pulled off the fuse box and turned it over to see how corroded the connections were there and I was not disappointed haha so I will be cleaning those up as well. On the up side, futzing with those connections has made the brake lights and fuel gauge come back to life, at least for the moment...


I'm sure it has been done but I haven't run across it...has anyone here retrofit their W115 with a modern style fuse box with blade fuses?