W111 Chassis Fintail Windshield Seal Frustration

[tram]

Funny, I've installed tons of the aftermarket W110/ 111 seals and haven't really had any issues. Last ones I did were in May. Getting the trim to stay in was a little dicey, but I taped the trim in place with painter's tape. What I've found on these FEBI/ Uero seals is that the trim is essential to getting the seal to hold shape and go in properly.

My partner and I also made our own door and trunk seals from a combo of bulk stick on seal from eBay and W114/115 seals. Had about $200- $250 in all 4 doors and trunk. Looks authentic as well. When I get the car back in for its first service in a few weeks I'll snap photos.

[roflwaffle]

Please do! Another forum member mentioned finding a decent replacement trunk seal for not too much, so if you have a cost effective way of replacing the door (and trunk) seals many of us would be set.

[jackson101]

Yes, there are probably many ways to "skin that cat" i.e. seals that work and look good. Anything from bulk seal material (proper width and height) to "mix and match" from other chassis that are dimensionally close. If cost is not obstacle, you simply order it all from the classic center. I removed a piece of seal from the rear door frame. It does not appear to look much different than some of the weather stripping I've seen in bulk at the local hardware store.
On the other hand, the stuff on the door, looks like it has to fit in the U-channel groove in the doors, for proper fit, retention and seal. Again, it's all about,...what you want and what you can accept. I wouldn't mind someone starting a thread on this subject, as these items are very pricey. I have a restoration underway on the 1967 230S and the seals are a big concern for me.
Sorry Squigman, didn't mean to hijack your thread!

[tram]

Hi Jack (and others):

I'm going to be getting the '67 200D back for its 750 mile break- in service next week, and I'll post pics of the seals we created and the low- down on them then. I'm pretty anal about my work, and have lots of training on older MB and have always been very particular about doing things the "correct" way, and I was very, very pleased with how these came out, both cosmetically and functionally. No water leaks, no air leaks.

Incidentally, this car was a full restoration, and we added a sliding roof clip, power steering, and Kuhlmeister A/C at the customer's request (as well as having to weld in floor pans and re- create seat mounts and tunnel areas). All mechanical components were rebuilt. This car wound up probably being the closest thing to a "new" 200D with all the bells and whistles that you could find. Customer spent WAY too much money, but he got what he wanted... and since he commutes about 30K miles a year, he'll probably break even when all is said and done at retirement in six years.

This guy could have bought any brand- new Mercedes he wanted... and chose a Fin Diesel. One of his other cars is a 600SL, and this Diesel just makes him grin from ear to ear.

It's a Graphitgrau car with a red interior, and it's a four on the floor. White steering wheel and shift ball.

Wish it was mine!

[Squiggle Dog]

Tram, it sounds like your customer is my kind of person! I really enjoyed my 200D and truly wish my 200D would have lasted, but eventually I'll be driving a fintail wagon with a turbo diesel engine, so it's all good.

[Squiggle Dog]

Today the new windshield seals arrived from The Classic Center. Wow! My friend could see firsthand how much better they are than the aftermarket seals.

These ones are labeled Made in Germany and the rubber is so soft and pliable. The rubber on the Uro and Febi seals was so hard. The Mercedes seals are thin, where the aftermarket ones were overly thick. The Mercedes ones also have molded upper corners. The lower corners are much more precise and don't have the thick injection molding spots.

I can tell already that the Mercedes seals are going to fit much, much better. There is no comparison! We're still waiting for the new headliner from Turkey to arrive.

[tram]

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Today the new windshield seals arrived from The Classic Center. Wow! My friend could see firsthand how much better they are than the aftermarket seals.

These ones are labeled Made in Germany and the rubber is so soft and pliable. The rubber on the Uro and Febi seals was so hard. The Mercedes seals are thin, where the aftermarket ones were overly thick. The Mercedes ones also have molded upper corners. The lower corners are much more precise and don't have the thick injection molding spots.

I can tell already that the Mercedes seals are going to fit much, much better. There is no comparison! We're still waiting for the new headliner from Turkey to arrive.

Oh, you got the headliner from w114selo? That's what I put in my customer's 200d sunroof car. It looks 100% authentic and fits great. Had to add a cardboard strip to tuck in at the rear of the sliding roof opening, but other than that, it was the easiest and best- fitting headliner install I've ever done. That gentleman knows his MB parts!

Pics on the seals are going to have to wait another week or so, as something's come up and I couldn't get the car back here for follow- up just yet.

[jackson101]

Squig,
How much was the headliner?

[Squiggle Dog]

Yep, my friend bought the headliner from w114selo. It was $110 plus $35 shipping.

I'm very glad to head that it fits well! I was worried that maybe it would have issues, being aftermarket. Did any material need to be trimmed from the sides?

[tram]

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

Yep, my friend bought the headliner from w114selo. It was $110 plus $35 shipping.

I'm very glad to head that it fits well! I was worried that maybe it would have issues, being aftermarket. Did any material need to be trimmed from the sides?

Yes, you need to trim all around but they give you plenty to work with. You'll be happy with the look... no "almost" about it.

[jackson101]

I just removed my rear seal and took this photo of the cross section of the rear seal. Thought this might interest those who are reading the thread. Gives them an idea what the OEM seal looks like.
I would be great if someone had an old aftermarket seal that they could cut and photograph, to give us an idea what the actual difference is.

[jackson101]

Hey Squig,
How does this trim piece come off?

[Squiggle Dog]

Good picture of the seal! I wish I could cut up the URO seal, but it was returned to the seller.

That upper chrome trim piece comes off using a plastic prybar, or very carefully if a flat blade screwdriver is all you have. There are metal clips riveted to the body that the trim wedges into. The trim comes off straight up, not toward the back of the car, just remember that. If you happen to accidentally break off the metal clips, they can be reattached using common size (nothing special) aluminum rivets.

[jackson101]

OK, so not prying straight off with knife wedged between frame and trim,...but pushing up, toward the roof, from the bottom edge of the trim?

I think I have those same rivet, retainers on the fin-trim.

[Squiggle Dog]

Originally Posted by jackson101

OK, so not prying straight off with knife wedged between frame and trim,...but pushing up, toward the roof, from the bottom edge of the trim?

I think I have those same rivet, retainers on the fin-trim.

A plastic prybar is best because you can apply a good amount of force without scratching anything. I got a set of plastic prybars for about $7 at Harbor Freight. The trim comes off by pushing up on it from the bottom edge. It will slide out of the metal clips on the body. I like to do a little at each section to put less stress on the trim and clips until the whole thing is loose.