Thinking Of Selling The 200D Again - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Squiggle Dog · #1 10-03-2010, 12:41 PM

I still have to do a compression test, but I think the engine in my 200D is probably in need of a rebuild. The previous owner said it was recently rebuilt but it leaks oil and smokes. He said that it was his daily driver and he drove it all over the place but the registration stickers expired years ago and the title wasn't even in his name! He was a crook, but I needed a car and it was the best match at the time.

I've had the fuel pump diaphragm replaced and calibrated, timing set at 26 BTDC, had the injectors rebuilt with German Monark tips, and adjusted the valves, cleaned and changed the oil bath air cleaner oil to the red line, but when I start the car it billows smoke and it's very embarrassing because it encompasses such a large area and chokes people who are standing nearby. The smoke lessens as the car warms up. It doesn't seem to smoke at high RPMs but if it idles for a time it will smoke. At this point I'm thinking that it's bad valve guides or worn rings. It seems that lots of oil passes through the vent tube into the air cleaner.

The engine has to come out and apart anyway because it's leaking an obnoxious amount of oil. It seems to be seeping around the head gasket and the upper oil pan and crank seals also appear to be leaking. But it seems like a waste of time to replace all of the engine seals if the engine is still going to be smokey. The replacement radiator is now leaking around the seams (but not a lot, at least).

All of the window and door rubber needs to be replaced and I can't afford the expense. The rocker panels and floors are rusted out but the rest of the car is solid, which is strange. The firewall needs to be patched up as well because it's got holes rusted in it. The paint is mostly in great shape except for where the diesel exhaust reacted with the paint and it's flaking off on the trunk and rear face of the car (and of course in the rocker panel area where there is metal missing). I would recommend replacing/patching the panels then paint matching and respraying only the bad paint areas.

But, this is too unrealistic of a project. If I only had one car then MAYBE I could repair the things this car needs but I'm focusing on the 300SD.

Now, the good thing about this car is that I have replaced many, many parts, mostly with genuine Mercedes parts or OEM equivalents. A short list of things I have replaced are radiator hoses, water pump, bypass tube, thermostat, Continental belts, valve cover gasket, exhaust hangers and tip, converted to Bosch H4 headlights, new Bosch alternator, the entire brake system is new or rebuilt (including ATE hoses and calipers) except for the hard lines and brake booster, NOS fuse box, Mahle fuel and oil filters, all hose replaced with biodiesel-resistant hose, fuel tank "cleaned", according to place I sent it to, Monark primer pump, rebuilt injectors with Monark tips, new fuel pump diaphragm and calibration, shift boot and bushing kit (except for the two on the transmission end), new ATE clutch cylinders and hose, and clutch was replaced by previous owner (I have receipt and old parts in good condition). I have receipts for almost all parts I installed.

The door panels, dashboard, seats, and headliner are in good condition and are not sun damaged since the car has green tinted glass. The dash pad is near perfect other than a spot where someone pushed against it when pulling the starter knob. I think everything is operational except for the blower motor which quit suddenly after hearing a "crunch". I made a 2,000 mile trip in this car without a breakdown. The tires have lots of tread left but are starting to weather check on the sidewalls. I have replaced all fluids in the vehicle (except for the steering gearbox), including proper orange coolant, Amsoil synthetic 15W40 engine oil with high zinc and phosphorous levels, Redline D4 ATF in the transmission, and Redline gear oil in the differential. I also packed the front bearings with Mobil1 synthetic grease and lubricated all chassis points according to the factory chart. I replaced the tie rods with good used parts and replaced the damper. The center link has not been replaced and has a little slop but the steering is tolerably tight.

I very carefully and precisely cut the dashboard opening out to install a modern Blaupunkt Bahamas CD/MP3 player.

Would $2,000 or best offer be a realistic asking price? This isn't some car that's been sitting for ages with a bad interior and horrible paint. And it has lots of new, quality parts. But, the engine probably needs to be rebuilt and it needs rust repair and new window and door seals. And a radiator recore. The good thing is it should be able to be driven anywhere in the USA if you keep a watch on the oil and coolant level. It used 1 quart of oil in 2,000 miles and almost no coolant during my trip a couple of months ago.

I would consider trading/partial trading for quality W116 chassis parts like NOS tan or brown vinyl seat skins, mint condition seat frames (especially the back seat), OEM door and window seals, mint condition tan interior parts, bundt wheels, etc.

These are just some thoughts as I don't think I can realistically fix this car within my budget and want to focus on my 300SD. I want to see if there is any interest in it or any interesting trade propositions. I'd love to trade for paint and body work on my 300SD.

The good:

Squiggle Dog · #2 10-03-2010, 12:43 PM

The bad:

Squiggle Dog · #3 10-03-2010, 12:58 PM

Here's how the 2,000 mile trip went in case anyone is interested: 2,000 Mile Trip Planned For 1968 W110 200D .

daw_two · #4 10-03-2010, 02:38 PM

I know someone that has (had?) a 1960 220SE engine and transmission for sale --- I know it might be more than you want to handle, but maybe an engine swap is in your future. That rust kills it for me.

Squiggle Dog · #5 10-03-2010, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daw_two

I know someone that has (had?) a 1960 220SE engine and transmission for sale --- I know it might be more than you want to handle, but maybe an engine swap is in your future. That rust kills it for me.

I'm not interested in gasoline engines, but thanks for the idea. I'd put my spare 5 cylinder turbo diesel in there first. There's not much room to work with, though. I think I've lost interest in the car now that I am focusing on my 300SD.

roflwaffle · #6 10-03-2010, 09:40 PM

I don't think the floorboards (not sure about the rockers) are that had to fix but the rust around the firewall could be a real pain. I'd be worried that the seam below the firewall under the fender is rusted. I saw that on a VW I parted/scrapped. Repair is possible if there's rust there, but the fender/dash would have to come off and it's a pain working w/ all those angles.

Squiggle Dog · #7 10-03-2010, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roflwaffle

I don't think the floorboards (not sure about the rockers) are that had to fix but the rust around the firewall could be a real pain. I'd be worried that the seam below the firewall under the fender is rusted. I saw that on a VW I parted/scrapped. Repair is possible if there's rust there, but the fender/dash would have to come off and it's a pain working w/ all those angles.

I had thought about grinding off as much rust as possible around the firewall, using a rust converter on the remaining rust, then fiberglassing the area. I had planned on replacing the floors and rockers completely since new ones are only a few hundred dollars. It would be a lesson in welding and I would probably have to rent one of those giant spot welding jaws.

panZZer · #8 10-08-2010, 05:11 PM

Patching with fiberglass will not hold. might for a little while in a place like AZ if done -thouroughly grinding away all traces of rust before laying EPOXY foundation, but then you got no bottom of the car left.

Squiggle Dog · #9 10-08-2010, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by panZZer

Patching with fiberglass will not hold. might for a little while in a place like AZ if done -thouroughly grinding away all traces of rust before laying EPOXY foundation, but then you got no bottom of the car left.

I had planned on patching with fiberglass around the firewall area, and having no rust left in this area. I had planned on replacing the rockers and floors with new complete patch panels from Mercedes (about $200 per side on rockers and about the same for floors).

Honestly, how much do you guys think this car is worth? I bought it for $1,200 after talking the seller down from over $2,000. It had 30 year old petrified tires and it didn't seem like it had ever had a part replaced (every part was probably original).

I replaced or serviced almost every mechanical part of the car and now it's in reliable daily driver condition except for the seeping radiator, engine cold smoking and oil leaks. It has good power and doesn't seem to smoke when warmed up. I've probably got about $2,000 into this car in parts alone (not including labor).

It would make me sick to sell it for less than what I originally paid for it after all of the time and money I have in it. I see ones in much worse condition listed for $2,000-$3,000 all the time. The interior is in amazing condition. It looks good visually except for the rust spots and where the paint is peeling off. I would say just have those spots resprayed after putting in new patch panels so you don't have to spend $5,000 on a complete paint job.

I just don't have the time or money for two cars. I make so little money at my job that it would be stupid for me to have a car that sets around when I could get cash for it.

Benzcrusher · #10 10-08-2010, 09:01 PM

Sell it on ebay...

Squiggle Dog · #11 10-08-2010, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benzcrusher

Sell it on ebay...

I think I will. In the past I haven't gotten much for cars on there, but lately I have seen some real wrecks (including fintails) selling for thousands. Kind of weird.

Squiggle Dog · #12 10-15-2010, 06:15 PM

This weekend I plan on doing a compression test of the engine. Though, I'm not sure what is to gain because I'm not sure if low compression numbers necessarily mean that the cylinders are bad (it could possibly be a bad head gasket or valve guides). I would think that more would be found by a visual inspection of the cylinders, and I would have to open up the engine anyway to replace gaskets and seals.

If, however, I get good compression numbers then I guess it would be safe to assume that the engine only needs either a new head gasket, valve guides, or maybe the timing chain put on the correct tooth.

I'm still not sure how knowing the compression numbers will help me at this point. After this is done I will most likely be putting the car on eBay so I can focus on my 300SD. There is no way I can afford 2 cars.