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#1
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I have a '72 350 SL with a fuel injected V8. It was running last night and then just lost power until it stopped running and wouldn't start. I changed the fuel filter and now I can get it to run briefly 1- 2 sec. with ether and then it shuts off.
I just need a quick fix so I can move the car.... any ideas? Last edited by BadMogumbo; 09-25-2006 at 11:12 PM. Reason: added more info |
#2
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Does it fire whilst the starter is engaged (key in cranking position) and stall when the starter is released (key in run position)? If so, it is likely that one of the two ballast resistors for the ignition has failed open circuit. With the key in the run position both ballast resistors are in circuit (series connected). With the key in the cranking position only one ballast resistor is in circuit with the other bypassed. If the resistor that gets bypassed fails open circuit, the engine will start but will stall as soon as the key is returned to the run position.
Greg
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107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership). 107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour. 124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex. 201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather. 201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex. 201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather. ![]() |
#3
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It starts, how long does it idle for (or run in gear) before stalling? or is the stalling instantaneous? Remembering you need fuel and spark for an engine to run (and compression which is not a factor in "intermittent" running), either your fuel system or your spark is acting up. If you use a can of ether in the intake can you keep it running (fuel issue)? Or does it still stall (ignition issue)?
Also, moving this to the vintage forum where it'll remain more active. That's where all the old-car gurus go ![]()
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#4
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The injectors aren't firing.... I'm thinking ECU or relay but my book sucks and I'm having difficulty locating things.
Any thoughts ? |
#5
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Junking a beautiful 350SL because of an ECU?!? If it's actually got a 3.5 (yellow injectors), I have an ECU (known good) for a 3.5 with EFI. Tried to sell it on fleabay twice now with no bites.
It's either a relay, ECU, or wiring. Make sure your injector grounds aren't corroded and are making good contact. Also make 100% sure your trigger point harness is plugged in and not corroded to the point of noncontact.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#6
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Ensure that the additional thin wire attached to the positive battery terminal has not corroded through or fallen off. This wire is the power supply for the fuel injection electronics.
Greg
__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership). 107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour. 124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex. 201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather. 201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex. 201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather. ![]() |
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