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Just test drove a 1980 280CE
Hi. I'm trying to help my brother find a car for his 16 year old son. I just drove a 1980 280CE priced at $1,500. I think it's a Euro model.
Here's what it has on it: VIN = 123053-12-018345 155,935 miles No A/C installed. Automatic transmission. Power sunroof. Power front windows. Manual rear windows. Newer Blaupunkt AM/FM/Cassette, aftermarket speakers. Mfg. Option Codes = 410 420 466 511 531 543 590 Paint Code = 930 G Here's my observations of the car after my 20 minute inspection/drive Odometer worked during my short test drive. Radio does not work in all speakers. Antenna does not go down. Minor rust in typical areas around wheel wells, corners of doors and door sills. No apparent major rust (looked under car, under all floor mats, in trunk, under hood). Body panels seem to line up and are evenly spaced. All chrome and trim present. Paint (a bluish silver) was faded on hood, roof, and trunk. Small exhaust leak. Cloth seats with vinyl trim, typical wear, no large holes in cloth but very thin. Wood dash trim warping, one part broken. Typical minor cracks in blue dashboard. All lights and signals work (including Euro directional parking lights & rear fog) All windows go up/down. Sunroof opens/closes (had to push it up a bit to get it to close). Headliner around sunroof had a couple water spots on it. All heater/vent/fan controls work. Car started quickly when cold (did not try a warm start). Warm up device worked, idle lowered as car warmed up. Idled smooth. Accelerated smooth. Brakes worked well, not much pressure required and braked in a straight line. Steering was smooth, but dead on center, probably a little worn/loose. Oil pressure around 2 bar at idle, instantly jumps to 3 at acceleration. New inexpensive tires. Clock works. Question 1: Is the price right? Question 2: Before I would let my brother buy it for his son, I would have it inspected. What would I have a mechanic do and look for that is specific to this model? (I know to check ignition, compression, timing chain slack, brakes, steering, bearings, and other generic things.) Thanks!
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com Last edited by rmasteller; 07-15-2005 at 04:49 PM. Reason: More description added |
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150k miles is usually time for major service........ valves & seals? ....timing chain? .....twincams and carrier? .....mounts and bushings? ......wheel bearings, center support bearing?
Do you have any maintenance history on the car? Its entitled to ONE cyl head/valve job then should be fine for another 150k miles. |
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My advice would be if the new owner is handy or knows people who can do work on the car for free then pursue it further, but if he will rely on mechanics to fix it it is probably a mistake to buy this car as a daily driver. No 25+ year old car is going to be all that reliable and it will be very expensive to keep on the road if you are paying $60-$90 per hour for tech time.
Keeping my fleet running can be a full-time job sometimes. I do it for relaxation but only rely on 2 of my 4 cars as daily drivers. The two oldest ones are for pure pleasure and therapy Having said that the 123 chassis is really wonderful to work on, very simple and intuitive. I am not familiar with the gasoline engine but have work on the 240D and 300D engines and they are also very straightforward and reliable. I recommend them because of their longevity but they are slow cars compared to the gassers.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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Quote:
Quote:
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com |
#5
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I don't think it sounds like a bad deal. I personally don't care for the looks of 123 coupes, but to each his own. Even if he relied on mechanics, I don't think it would be too bad of a thing depending of course one how he wants his car. If he's like me, he'd be instantly bankrupt if he had everything fixed/adjusted by a mechanic. Truth is though, the kid probably won't ever think twice about a little slop in the steering wheel. A slight shimmy over 80 won't bother him too much and could be a good thing. If the sunroof doesn't work, the car will still be operable. I doubt he would have a shop reupholster a seat or do the pool noodle trick.
In conclusion, I think it depends on what the kid wants. Me personally, I would not buy it solely because I don't do rust and I don't like coupe 123's. And, (as I duck), I probably wouldn't ever want to own a 123 chasis MB. I like BIG cars, my SDL suits me well. Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
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The car is now sold.
That's OK, I spoke with my brother and some "things" changed in the house so his son isn't getting a car this summer.
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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!) PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100 www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com |
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