ATE. T50/26 Servo Unit

[patmccusker]

I have a T50/26 remote brake booster in my 1963 220.
I have bypassed it at the master cylinder and plugged the vaccuum line
and removed it from the car. I am about to tear it apart and find out
what can do to improve it. Any body done this before?
if so can you offer advice and any info on what rebuild kits
may be available. Any advice will be appreciated. Pat.

[sokoloff]

This might help.

http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/booster/booster.htm

Len

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Note: While the Ponton's T50 brake servo functions the same, the T50/24 and T50/26 servos used in the early Fintails is a redesign and some of information in the Ponton article may not apply. Hopefully, Will Samples of S&S Imports still has parts for all the servos.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[sokoloff]

Will would be the guy to fix it or get you the parts you need. He is excellent as my article indicates.

Len

[Mark DiSilvestro]

I just spoke to Will Samples at S&S Imports and he was very helpfull. He still has some hydraulic repair kits for the Fintail servos but the supply is dwindling.

You can contact him at 214-826-5977 or Email him at ssimports@sbcglobal.net

As a possible option for those with servos who can't get repair parts, there are a number of suppliers of aftermarket replacement servos listed in publications like Hemmings and hot-rod catalogs or magazines. A friend who updated his '50 Plymouth with a V8, front discs and a servo gave me one supplier's website but I'll have to look for it. As I recall the servos were in the $300 to $400 range depending on size and application. (To put that in perspective, Will said the last time he saw a price for a new ATE Mercedes servo they were $2000!)

Happy Motoring, Mark

[patmccusker]

That was a terrific article you wrote Len. That will help get me started.
I'm not real big on spending money so I would buy a $190. kit as a last resort. I was hoping for something simpler. I will dissassemble and inspect and try to replace only the parts I actually need. but I will know better after I get in there and if needed, it is really great to have the address for a kit.Thanks Again, I really appreciate it. Pat.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Pat,
When I spoke to Will Samples at S&S he said the hydraulic repair parts for the Fintail servos should be considerably cheaper than the Ponton kit (which is now something over $200). He said he thought it might be around $65. He also Emailed me me a terrific factory spec sheet and some cross-section diagrams for the T50/24-26. If you want to provide your Email I can forward them or you can contact Will directly.

Happy Motoring, Mark

[patmccusker]

Thanks alot mark. I would greatly appreciate that and the price sounds much better. I will give Will a call. My email is pm2222@ATT.NET I'm really greatfull for your help. Pat.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Pat,
I've forwarded you the Emails Will sent me.
Even though it's still working OK, I'm wondering if I should get a kit for my servo while it's still availible, but I'm also thinking about eventually converting my '60 Fintail to power steering and twin-circuit front discs. I have a Benz power steering gear and pump but need a different steering column. I have a disc-brake front end off a '64 too, but still need the dual master with booster and plumbing. I even have a hang-on Kuhlmeister AC, but need compressor brackets and a drive pulley.

Decisions, Decisions!

Happy Motoring, Mark

[patmccusker]

It sounds like you have the beginings of some good modifications. You could probably sell the booster after you get it done but if I had a choice Id go to front disks now and put the money in that instead.especially if your booster is working. I know mine was bad so I had no choice. I got the pictures and specs and diagram. Its terriffic stuff. I'm really happy you sent it.
The pictures of the finished booster are incredible. No wonder they are so expensive. It looks like he does a really great job. I recently rebuilt my master cylinder and re installed it with the booster bypassed. I just bled the lines and tried it out today. It has alot of stopping power. Im happy with the way it came out. Also when I removed the booster I plugged the vaccuum line and I noticed the car is running better and not smoking as much. Im sure it was sucking brake fluid into the engine. Thanks again, Im going to call Will Samples Monday. I just Hope I can make mine as nice as his. Pat.

[Mark DiSilvestro]

Pat,
I recently adjusted my drum brakes, so I'm more comfortable with those than with the manual steering. If I can transfer the Kuhlmeister AC from the remains of my Ponton 180b I will be more encouraged to drive my Fintail during our miserable southern summers.

I asked Will about the servo canister refinish and he said he zinc plates them. The remnants of my servo's original platng look like zinc-chromate, which originally would have given it a gold color. In any case, I don't have plating equipment so I would probably paint mine, either with aluminum wheel paint, which gives a more muted natural aluminum finish than ordinary silver paint, or semi-gloss black similar to some other underhood parts like the air-filter casing.

As I recall, you said you used a Chevy kit in your master cylinder rebuild. Could you give the part number and any other info as to what else this kit fits?

Happy Motoring, Mark

[cth350]

BTW, there was a brand new servo on ebay about 2 months back. Guy wanted about 750$ for it. He relisted it at 300$ and got no takers. -CTH

[patmccusker]

That $ 300 dollar new servo sounds like a great deal. I didn't see it at the time.
The master cylinder kit I used was Number. GM #3905792 GR.4.649. It fit my master cylinder with a 1 inch ( 25.4mm ) bore. It was a great fit except the check valve set against the bottom of the bore and hole in the bottom of the bore was too small to allow the check valve to open good. I didnt want to put a spacer because it might have blocked the bleeder hole so I put a 3/4 inch countersink around the hole at the bottom of bore and it worked great. Of course now I will probably never be able to use an ATE kit again but thats OK with me. I don't know what other master cyls. it fits but it fit mine so I am attaching a picture of my master cylinder and the kit.
PS check out www.eastwood.com. They cary various brake booster coatings including gold cadium-- Clear Zink and Zink Phosphate and TiCoat for titanium look.

[patmccusker]

It wouldnt let me post the pictures because I allready posted them in a thread called 220B master clyinder so if you want to see them search fot that thread.

[patmccusker]

The picture looks better than it is. Iv'e been working on it for a long time because I'm slow. I fix one thing and find something else. Right now the brake booster is off so I can rebuild it (Soon I Hope). And the gas line is offso I could clean the fuel pump and now I'm trying to find the little hoses where the gasline joins the tank and I would like to take out the drain plug and I read there is a filter abobe the drain plug but I'm not taking it out till I find a new drain plug seal. Then I need to re adjust the carbs. I previously rebuilt them but they need to be adjusted better and syncronized. It's ambitious but I have a week off in July and I plan to be driving it then. Pat.