1974 MB 280 daily driver? (Newb)

[friendlybunny]

My wife and I have been looking for an older MB for daily driving. There is a local ad for a 1974 280 with 87k original miles and all service records for $2500. It currently drives, but we haven't checked it out yet.

My question is, is this a good model for daily driving or should we be looking for a diesel 80s model, like an 300sd?

Any advice is appreciated, we don't know much about Mercedes.

Also... I don't have a garage, but I do some mechanical work (admittedly poorly).

Thanks!

[TX76513]

If your question is will a 31 year old car be a good dependable daily driver that will require little maintenance then the answer is no. Based on what you posted it would be a very good idea to have this car PPI'd by a mechanic who is familiar with older MB's before you purchace.

[friendlybunny]

Yeah... I know that buying a vintage car is not the same as owning a new Honda. I've heard that some models of Mercedes are more unreliable, and harder to fix than others. The newest car I've ever owned was a 1984 BMW. And I had a 71 Oldsmobile that ran like a tank and was easy to fix. I'm just wondering what to expect with this model MB. I've heard that the 80s diesels can go forever, but I haven't heard much about the 70's 280. I don't mind putting money into repairs every once in awhile, as long as it's cheaper than a car payment.

Thanks for any advice.

[cth350]

The car is a great car, with two notable problems...
- The factory carb is aweful. Be sure to get the car inspected and the emissions tested. Ignore them if they say it's too old to matter. There's a spec. Make sure the car meets it.

- All the 70s mercedes are prone to rust. This one is no exception. Look for and reject holes in the floor or firewall. Also reject holes in the rocker panels (the metal under the doors running from front wheel to back).

That last item would reject 95% of the 70s benzes out there. If you want a daily driver, you don't want the hassle that rust is going to open up for you.

If you want a basic, stable, daily driver then a well maintained diesel or post-1977 fuel injected car will be better than a carb'd one. But again, it's that "well maintained" clause you have to wonder about.

-CTH

[friendlybunny]

Thanks... I'm in TX, so there aren't emissions tests... yet (unfortunately). So I assume there isn't much rust as well. I'll check it out and try to decide.

Thanks,

[250 Coupe]

I use my 1971 250C for a daily driver.

The biggest issues are poor fuel milage and leaking windows.

I get around 13MPG on my 18 mile round trip commute and it may go up to 14! on the highway. Keep in mind I have the 2.8L SOHC six with two carbs rather than the 2.8L DOHC with the four barrel that comes in the 280.

I had the front windshield sealed at an auto glass place and it no longer leaks but I tried to do the rear and of course it still leaks. Even if you don't get much rain there, expect anything in the trunk to get wet when it does rain.

Keep the ignition points clean, they will strand you when they get dirty.

As for maintenance, I tinker with it every few months and that's about it.

My wife says she feels safer in the 250C than she does in her '95 Dodge Stratus. Hmm.

This is my third early 70's MB ('70 250/8, '76 280C, '71 25C) and I'll probably get another.

Michael

[cth350]

The emissions testing I recommended is NOT for making the car legal. It's for proving that it runs right and that you're not looking at replacement carb in the near future or an engine rebuild or both. -CTH

[ctaylor738]

The only observation I would make is that this is the least fun of all the gassers - a dumbed-down engine with 120 HP and a power-eating auto trans. And if the carb dies, then you have a serious problem. The 77-81 280E is a better car all around. And a 280CE will give you a little more style.

[diametricalbenz]

I commute my w115 240d every day and I am usually the oldest car on the road. It's comfortable in traffic and handles all the potholes quite well. Mine fortunately doesn't have any rust in the jack holes and or holes in the rocker panels. It does have some surface rust underneath the rear floor mats from prior owner water accumulation but nothing anywhere near what the "95%" of w115's are described to have.

Are you interested in the 280 because of the style and or retro-ness as or are you looking for something economical and easy to fix yourself?

[Tomguy]

If you're already asking about a diesel in your first post, you probably should get one of them instead.

The gasser will get 18MPG or so if you're lucky and drive with a soft foot. How much maintinance it needs depends on how well it's been upkept - expect to do engine mounts, subframe bushings, sway bar bushings, and anything else rubber in the system if it hasn't been done in the last 10 years. The problem with buying an older car is just that - you're usually paying to bring it to spec because the PO doesn't want to spend the money to do it him/herself. Of course, this isn't always the case. But expect to do these. Also, if the shocks were replaced at any point with non-Bilsteins, you'll probably want to replace those too.

This is a problem you'll run across with ANY older car, not just a Benz. So long as you know what to expect, and it isn't rusted, go for it!

[JacobJob]

I own a 1975 280, paid $2250, and drive it on a daily basis. From what I can remember it should be fairly similar to the one your looking at except with more emissions control. It drives good, but gets rather poor gas mileage. The automatic transmission is a definite power-eater, but its still got good power in my opinion. I'd recommend against getting one though. The parts are rather expensive and hard to find. Alot of work is required to replace even simple parts and there seems to be very little in the way of documentation on models 74-76. At least from my searches.

Mine has had some rather intriguing problems and quirks. Over the last year I've had to replace two starters and it still gives me trouble every great once in awhile($125 for bosch rebuilt I believe), a water pump ( mechanic did that for $400), and most recently I had to replace a diaphragm in the vacuum pump ($50).

Someone may find this last part about the vacuum pump useful so I'll put it in. My 280 started burning oil a month back. This would happen mostly at stop lights. When I'd pull away, I would leave a smoke cloud bigger than any smoke bomb I've seen. This got worse quick. I searched these forums and many others, asked multiple mechanics, checked documentation. All pointed towards something in the area of valves, valve guides, piston rings, or a spun bearing.
Luckily when working on it I noticed a little oil residue in a line from the vacuum pump (didn't know what it was at the time) attached to the left side of the head. This vacuum line ran from the intake manifold to the vacuum pump to the vacuum brake booster. Out of curiousity, I took the pump apart and found a rubber diaphragm inside with a crack in it. This crack allowed oil to be sucked from the head, through the vacuum line and check valves, directly into the intake, instant mosquito fogger. Replaced this and no more problem. Hope this saves someone alot of time and money.

[Nate Stanley]

My MIL has a '74 280 with the california emissions package. If yours does too, it will have the infamous thermal reactors, which bolt directly to the cylinder head. They look like catlyitic convertors, but operate on a different principle.

Each reactor services 3 cylinders, and they are nearly imposssible to find if they have split from age and you need to replace them..the last price from Mercedes was 1400 bucks each when they were available.

They elevate underhood temps to the point that all nearby wiring will be toasted.

I do not know if the 49-state cars have them, but they are to be avoided at all costs. You will get 12-14 MPG around town as long as you have these on your car.

If it is legal in Texas to remove all that emissions stuff, go ahead and do it. If you can remove the reactors (providing you have them) and replace them with a standard exhaust manifold (and a downstream cat convertor), you will be better off.

If you can do all that, Set the ignition timing to about 12 degrees BTDC at idle (or more if your fuel quality permits it) and it will be a good running machine.

[mzsmbs]

my 72 250 is just as reliable as my nissan... it even started in -10F like it was 80F...

[KylePavao]

I've dealt with rust EXTENSIVELY on my old 1983 240D. And unless you want a perfect car, there are a lot of products out there that can stop rust where it is. POR 15, for instance. It limits rust growth and allows you to place fiberglass over some of those pesky floor holes that many W115's get. If your not worried about people on the highway seeing the fiberglass job done on the UNDERSIDE of your car, then your all set.

My 1983 240D had pretty badly rusted out rear quarters. With a cut off disk and a sander, and some creative use of fiberglass layering, no rust came bubbling out of the fixes I mad for 1.5 years. If its a good price with a good engine, think about it. Even a few rust spots here and there can be a lot cheaper than a cherry car with a crapped out engine. If it has a good engine, the thousands you save because it has some rust spots can buy a decent amount of bodywork, or if you do it yourself a lot of fiberglass resin, matched paint, and grinding wheels.

Keep it up!

Keep it up@