Hi:

My 87 300E has almost 150K miles on it. it starts o.k. until the speed increases then I will feel the car hesitates at 20-30 mph then surge from 2k rpm to 3k rpm, back down to 2k rpm then run smoothly afterwards. However, when I increase the speed gradually and slowly the hesitation is not really noticeable.

A shop guy told me that the problem is the transmission (he did not test drive the car). He would rebuild and install the transmission for $1,850.00 He also said that a Mercedes Transmission would last about 150-200K miles. Here are my questions:

1. The problems that I described are only nuisance and I don't mind coping with it until I have to. I know if it's indeed a transmission problem it will get worse, what could be the worst if I keep it going for a while, say, another 50K? Will the car simply dies then I have to have the trans. replaced?

2. The shop guy said when the car reaches 200K, I'll need a volve job for $2.5K.

Please advise, thanks.

DL

Yes, valve guides and seals are a common concern on that engine. You only need them when the engine starts excessively consuming oil, not based solely on mileage. But by 200k miles, a lot of engines usually have it done. Monitor your oil consumption and see what it turns out to be, this will tell you when you need a valve job.

If the transmission is not slipping or flaring, I seriously doubt that it is a transmission problem. Is the engine hesitating? Transmission life depends on many factors. Some barely make it to 150k and some go over 300k.

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Ali Al-Chalabi

2001 CLK55
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel
2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy
Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record

1. Before you rebuild the transmission try to drain all of the ATF including the torque converter & changed the filter. Total cost of this is around $50. Make sure you use the right ATF when you refill the transmission. I did that to mine and it bought me about another 6 months. For a few lucky others, it corrected their problem (plugged transmission filter).

If that doesn't work, then you'll have no choice but to get the transmission rebuilt. $1800 is not that bad (about the same amount I paid for mine) just make sure they use OEM parts.

2. Get the valve job if your car needs it. "if it isn't broken, don't fix it" that has always been my motto. Preventative maintenance repairs excluded.

Good luck.

jrmd01@yahoo.com

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JR
1986 Gold 300E 4Dr automatic

If it were my car I would also check all of the throttle linkages and make sure they are properly lubed and are not binding. There are ball caps and pivots. I believe Mercedes recommends ATF to lube.

Over the years I have done this at least once a year with all of the cars I have owned and it is well worth it. Prevents binding and keeps the gas pedal operating smoothly and easily.

On the left side of the engine is the bowden cable that comes up from the transmission. Does it move freely or bind?

Since one will have to remove the air cleaner assembly to gain access to the linkage, but sure the air mass sensor plate moves easily and freely. Is it and/or the edges of the housing dirty? If so be sure to gently wipe clean these both.

Also, have you checked your cap and rotor? And BTW how about Plugs? What kind of plugs?

Does the car do this in every gear?

When was the transmission serviced last? Be sure to check the vacuum modulator on the left side of the trans: It has a vacuum tube that goes to it. Is the rubber tube connecting it brittle and hard? Pull the tube off, does ATF leak out of it? That would mean replacement.

Keep us posted,

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

I agree that you should service the tranny first.

Also, with respect to the top end, our 190E has the M103 in it, and it's coming hard on 250K-miles and doesn't use enough oil to have any concern about a top end in the near future. Keep fresh oil/filters in it and you'll maximize top end life...

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John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif

Hi, all:

Thank you all for the sound advice. I'll collect them and make a list for actions. I'll report back for the progress.

DL

Hi, all:

I'm happy to report back that all my problems listed in previous threads have been gone. After agonized for trying to do next,I decided to check my ATF fluid level. Sure enough, ATF level was "too low" and that's why I could not even see the fluid level. I felt a little stupid, checking the fluid level really should be the first place, and easiest, to check. Since I spent $$$ and had the car thoroughly, so I thought, checked and serviced by a local mechanic I assumed he checked all fluid level including ATF. How wrong could that be? Once I slowly adding up the ATF I began to see the fluid level registered on the dipstick. I ended up adding about 2- 1/4 quarts of ATF to the tranny. Once the level is correct, all my tranny problems are gone. Now tha car runs smoothly.

While I was having doubts about my tranny, I posted following thread for dealing with the ATF:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/91113-dumb-question-about-atf-post616226.html#post616226

As always, I received many valuable advices.

Thank you all for helping me out and I certainly learned a lot.

DL

Hmmm....

Where do you reckon 2+ quarts of transmission fluid went? Does it leak?

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

Good question. We bought the car 14 years ago and my wife had been driving it until I took over it about four months ago. Since I drive it now and I begin to feel the problems. I don't recall that I had the transmission serviced by a mechanic, maybe I forgot, but I never look at the ATF level until now. There is no puddle underneath the car, so where did the ATF go? Beats the heck of me but I certainly will pay more attention to it now.

Possible undetected leaks are the vacuum modulator, just pull the line and check for oil, also check the radiator for a strawberry shake color