|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
How do you run a compression test on a diesel?
How do you run a compression test on a diesel? Going to buy one if it passes a compression test. What numbers should be good for a 300D 2.5T?
__________________
Meek 1977 Volkswagen Golf GTi (sold) 1981 Audi 5000S Turbo (sold) 1982 Volkswagen Rabbit LS 145k (sold) 1983 Volkswagen Rabbit GTi 150k (sold) 1984 Saab 900 150k (sold) 1984 Volkswagen Scirocco GTX 1.8T 20V 1985 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.0 160k(sold) 1986 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.3-16 188k (sold) 1988 Volkswagen Fox 161K (sold) 1990 BMW 525td (Sold) 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 100k 1994 Saab 900 SE Turbo 55k (sold) 1996 Volvo 855R 140K 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg 16k (sold) |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
The same as a gas engine except you remove the injectors instead of the spark plugs. You will need a diesel compression gauge and adapter for your particular engine. The diesel tester goes to well over 300PSI.
There are some good diesel compression tester kits available. I can't remember where I got mine, it might have been from Baum tools on the internet. Hope this helps, |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
We quit doing compression tests for prepurchase inspections many years ago unless specifically asked for.
Making a good judgement on diesel compression is real hard. MB has numbers that are a specification. Something like 320-340psi or so. Almost all gauges I have used have read closer to 400psi on good motors. Compression gauge readings are used for comparative judgements. Like this year to last year or this cylinder to the next. Absolute readings are based upon a single techs knowledge of his gauge in that motor over many tests. No tech can get everything with a brand new gauge even if he has tested that motor group multiple times with other equipment. The worse problem for diesels is that they probably have relatively the same compression cyl to cyl till they fail. I have seen huge oil burners with good even compression. The best judgement of a diesels condition is to know how much oil it is using and how much blow-by it currently has.... another very experience laden judgement call.
__________________
Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
What about the old quick test: Remove a valve cover vent tube and when hot and running, put a thumb over the tube and see how long it takes to push your finger off the tube?
The idea being blow-by- the longer is takes the less blow-by and the better the condition of the engine.
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Gentlemen
If you could, just for a knowledge base, explain the step by step proceedures for the compression check. I have done compression checks on gas engines. As well as a leak down check. I have both guages. Now for the diesel compression check. Of course the guage range must be higher. So a different guage to buy. My questions would be. 1. Test through glow plug holes or through the injectors holes? Benefits of either? 2 What about the injector lines. Should these not be removed ( if testing thru the glow plugs) to prevent the injector from affecting the pressure reading. And from the engine to prevent it from starting in a warm climate? 3. How do you prevent the injector pump from spraying fluid everywhere ( if the lines are removed)? 4. The pressure readings are of course subjective. I guess what I'm asking here is for a blow by blow description of the procedure. Dave PS Well!!! If I would take my own advise and refer to the SM job 01-010 compression test proceedure. http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/123_DISK2/program/123-cd-index.html
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car Last edited by dmorrison; 03-13-2004 at 02:39 PM. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
1. Test through glow plug holes or through the injectors holes? Benefits of either?
It doesn't matter as long as the adapter is designed for the application. I used to go through the glow hole (20 years ago). My first attempt to do it through the injector hole was to get a nozzle holder and remove the nozzle and weld a fitting on the chamber. I found that I got terrible readings. The reason was I had significantly changed the combustion chamber size by leaving the whole nozzle holder empty. The device that screws in the nozzle holder hole for compression readings lets no volume inside. 2 What about the injector lines. Should these not be removed ( if testing thru the glow plugs) to prevent the injector from affecting the pressure reading. And from the engine to prevent it from starting in a warm climate? See answer to #3 3. How do you prevent the injector pump from spraying fluid everywhere ( if the lines are removed)? For all the automatic vacuum controlled systems, just pull a vacuum on the fuel shut-off diaphram. 4. The pressure readings are of course subjective. Of course!
__________________
Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Or have someone hold down the stop lever while cranking.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
Bookmarks |
|
|