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#1
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Hard Starting 300E
Everytime I go to start my car after the cars been "resting" it always takes forever to start. I turn the key, it cranks and cranks and cranks and when i think i got it started, it stalls. Recently it's been doing it occationally after it's jus been started. So what helps a bit is reving it while im starting, but still occationally stalls. I had some work on it a few weeks ago and my mechanic said it needed some new spark plug wires, now i didn't want to have him do it cause i was gonna have to pay much more to get it done, so i figured i'd just do it once i got around to it, which i havn't yet. Would that effect my starting that much? Also would worn Spark plugs do all this? Im going to replace these things with in the month. Also, would fuel injecters have a part in this? Once our school shop become usable (under construction), im going to be doing all this work then.
Thanks in Advance |
#2
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Hard Starting
Did you ever solve this? I've got a hard starting problem with my 92 300E, too.
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#3
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If the ignition system is not in top shape, it could be one of the causes of your problem.
Other possible causes: Fuel accumulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, cold start valve (below a certain temperature). Been there, done that. Good luck jackD |
#4
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for Chris17H re your starting and stopping 300E
One day I tried to start my 86 300E and it started then died. This happened several times in succession. I called MB and they replaced the Fuel Accumulator. It has been starting fine and running well since. Might be your problem.
Al |
#5
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Hard Starting
It turned out the coil was the culprit. Replaced it and everything's fine!
Thanks for the response. |
#6
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Todd
How did you know it was the coil? Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#7
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Hard Starting
The starting problem existed only in cooler and/or wet weather. My guess was that fuel delivery wasn't the problem, otherwise the problem would probably have been more consistent, despite the weather. I didn't really know it was the coil, as I don't have my own diagnostic equipment, but I took a guess and figured I'd start with the easiest-to-deal-with, most common problems. The car has over 150,000 on it and the coil was the original part. I found a guy who would replace it for $110, parts/labor, so I figured what the heck. The coils tend to go on these cars after a certain time anyway. I did also replace the overvoltage protection relay previous to the coil, but that wasn't the problem. But i've heard that sometimes that can be the culprit, too. At least now I know those two parts are OK for another 100,000K or so.
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#8
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Todd,
Thanks for the explanation.
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#9
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Is replacing a coil a DIY type job? Is the coil ever replaced at one of the major services, i.e. 120,000 miles?
Thanks, glenmore 1991 300CE |
#10
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Hard Starting
Replacing the coil is definitely a DIY job -- should take no more than 20 minutes or so. You can find the part at wholesale pricing of just over $100 or so.
I don't believe the coil is automatically replaced at any servicing. I checked back on that on the description of the 120,000 service, which I took my car in for, and nothing about the coil is mentioned. Remember, I drive a '92 300E: it has one coil. I believe other models may have more, or even no coils? |
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