Looks like the shafts are mounted to the differential with serrated bolts. anyone knows the size and where to buy a serrated wrench? My car has 270,000 miles on it and want to swap the shafts (left/right).

Wait what? I'm pretty sure you can disconnect the flex disc and pull it right out of the splines in the rear. I can't imagine having to do all that. I haven't done it, but I've looked at it before

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

the socket is either #6 or #8 12 point internal, i forget. you can buy a cheap set at advance, napa, etc., but they tend to be soft. find the correct size and buy snapon, sk, proto, etc. no craftsman. too much play in the tool. if you waited this long, you can wait a bit for a real tool. get a tube of valve grind compound for traction. put some on the bit and some in the head of the bolt, not much. the grit adds more grip to the tool. you also need to remove the diff mount so you can raise the diff and get more room, the axles are too long if you don't. good luck, chuck.

The inboard CV joint bolts have triple-square (XZN) internal wrenching heads. Although the triple-square has 12 points, and resembles a 12 point double hex, the correct XZN driver must be used. A double hex driver is very likely to round out the inside of the bolt.
The CV joint bolts in question should be 12mm. Clean the bolt sockets thoroughly; use brake clean, picks, air; get all the dirt out, so that the driver can go all the way into the socket.
All the high quality tool sellers such as Snap-On, and their competitors (Matco, Proto, etc.) can supply the driver.

Thank u all for the responses. 12mm serrated triple sq sounds about right.

guess it's been awhile for me, i thought i was 6 or 8, not 10. never thought about 12. good luck, chuck.

from my readings, it appears these 6 serrated bolts are really hard to remove. My question is, instead of removing the serrated bolts that connects the shaft to the joint, is it possible to remove the locking ring inside the differential to free up the joint and pull out the axle shaft as a whole assembly including the joint - this without removing the 6 serrated bolts? Is this possible?

My objective is to swap the axle shafts (Left/Right)

What is the point of swapping the axles left to right?

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

my car has 275000 miles on it. would like to lengthen the life of the rear axles. Would appreciate you can focus on the question.

I have many cars with more miles than yours is why I ask the question. It is a serious one, how does swapping from left to right give you more life in them?

Sure you can pop the inner stub axle out from the rear diff to swap axles left to right without removing the triple square bolts. Nothing to it, just will be creating more work than removing the bolts at both ends of the axle. You may also run into clearances issues with the stub attached. Do you not have a copy of the factory service manual?

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

thank you for addressing my question and sharing your insights. highly appreciate it. I do have the CD but the pictures are not readable.

yes, that's another way. remove the diff fill plug. remover the drain plug. the reason for that order is if you drain if first and can't remove the fill plug, you are screwed. remove the diff mount. lower the diff. remover the cover. rotate the axles so the clips are revealed. they have an ear with a hole in it to snag it out. raise the diff. remove the outer bolts at the hub. wrestle as required to remove the axle. installing the clips can be a pain. patience is mandatory. there is no gasket for the cover. i use a permatex liquid gasket maker, i forget the number but i get it at advance, so it's common. no silicone. good luck, chuck.

The suggestion of removing the half shafts without separating the flange, really should be viewed as a non-starter; the whole rational of being able to separate the shaft at that point is to avoid the necessity of opening the diff. The work involved is rather less than before that style of CV joint was adopted by Mother Benz.

"really hard to remove" is subjective. The bolts have been tightened to about 100 lb-ft, and will require a bit more than that to break loose. In the event that the procedure had been found to be insurmountable at some time in the past 30 years, it is likely that a service bulletin would have been issued.