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#16
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Thanks for the tips! I would love to have a list of codes. Maybe someone could post them in the DIY section for all to have.
![]() Adam |
#17
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Maybe someday the DIY section can start accumulating code info. There is a real problem with such. The code book from MB for model years to 1993 is 260 pages and those were the simple models with fewer control units and less internal diagnostics.
The ability to know which chart to use for each system/model is a skill all to its self. Send me your email and I'll send a pdf doc on EA/CC/ISC.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#18
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Here are the codes i pulled of all the pins!
Pin#3: 6 and 12 Pin#7: 1 Pin#8: 8 Pin#14: 2 and 11 Could someone please turn this into english for me. Thanks A Lot! Adam |
#19
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TTT
I'm anxious! |
#20
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AS for pin 14 which is for cc,isc,ea. Code 2 is for the e/a unit N41. Most early models had the harness problem inside the e/a , baiscally the harness falls apart and you have to replace the ea,cc,isc unit. Dont remember code 11 . This is off a 16 pole connector I take it and not a 38. I have replaced alot of these units as well as engine and starter harness' on the e-320s.
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euro 287 Mercedes Technician 7 Years (retired to Hyundai) 2000 Dodge Durango 98 Mazda truck |
#21
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I think i understand,,, I need a new wiring harness right? I heard there was some sort of recall/warranty on these wiring harnesses correct?
Thanks Again! Adam |
#22
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I got about six items into the 14 item description of code 2 and erased it last night when I realized that repeats were included and the the difference was in the testing; to voluminous too possibly write.
Code 2 via the impulse counting method can be further deliniated to six separate codes if one uses a scanner. Erik is right the problem is likely in the throttle assy EA/CC/ISC, but a number of the items under code two refer to the closed throttle switch. The code 11 is again 4 possible codes with HHT. They all revolve around : fuel safety shut-off and closed throttle recognition. I would say the problem is that the controller is having a hard time deciding where closed throttle is. I doubt that this is covered by MB, but consider the throttle assy an investment as if yours is original its basically a failure in waiting.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#23
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<<
300E EXPERT Registered: Apr 2000 Location: Lake Geneva, WI Posts: 626 Here are the codes i pulled of all the pins! Pin#3: 6 and 12 >> PIn 3 is the emmisiions module and the same codes you can get with the built-in sw/led. 6-idle speed control inoperative 12- O2 sens heater open/shorted. Pin#7: 1 >> Pin 7 is a/c module and 1 flash is "No codes stored" Pin#8: 8 >> Pin 8 is HFM-SFI module . 8-ISC system Pin#14: 2 and 11 >> Pin 14 is ea/cc/isc module 2-cc/isc control module 11-closed throttle recognition sig- fuel shut off As you have cleaned the throttle , it is possible to trip some of these codes if you hand lift the throttle cable. This will trip a "Limp home Code " and must be cleared. If you have unplugged the o2 sens, the same can apply.. So, write down your existing codes and erase them. Now start from scratch to obtain the correct codes. From there , a HHT scanner will give you a better, more detailed diagnoses... As said, check wire harness closely.... And you may want to take SB up on the pdf file for future reference.... I see you made the tool ???? |
#24
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I hate to interject, but the "ea/cc/isc" unit and the wiring harness issue.
Is the ea/cc/isc unit another name for the throttle actuator? Does the actuator go bad or just the wiring harness? Can the wiring harness be replaced, or do you replace the whole throttle actuator? It's just about $1,000 to replace the throttle actuator.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#25
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Yes the ea,cc,isc is the throttle actuator and you replace the assy. I have about 10 old ones still laying aruond here that I show customers.
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euro 287 Mercedes Technician 7 Years (retired to Hyundai) 2000 Dodge Durango 98 Mazda truck |
#26
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Hmmm, Well, Is it safe to say that replacing the throttle actuator will solve the problem for sure or should i have a technician dig a little deeper? I did get code 11 to clear but code 2 is still there. From what i am seeing the idle is just high. Is this going to cause any adverse affects if i don't repair it? Is there any further diagnostics i can do myself? A grand for a throttle actuator is a little hard to stomach!
Thanks! Adam |
#27
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You can have a tech read the live data and then advise you of what to do.
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euro 287 Mercedes Technician 7 Years (retired to Hyundai) 2000 Dodge Durango 98 Mazda truck |
#28
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So basically, the throttle actuator on early M104's (93-95??) need to be replaced often because the wiring harnesses on the actuator's go bad?
Is it because the insulation on the wiring degrades just like the frequently discussed engine wiring harnesses? Is there any other part of the throttle actuator that fails, or is it just the wiring harness portion? Based on Steveb's comments, is it something that will go bad eventually, even if it hasn't yet? I bought a throttle actuator (from Fastlane) to cure my idle problem (idle was hunting up and down). Didn't install it because I was unsure of my diagnosis from reading the archives. It turned out to be a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. I still have the actuator at home and was going to sell it or return it. I wonder if I should keep it and install it now, or wait until the part actually goes bad. Or, I could sell it to Adam Bourassa. Wanna buy it from me? We have the same engine.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#29
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It is my opinion that the original throttle assy's were less durable than what is being sold now. I did a number check and there is two possible throttle assy's. One for cars with ASR and one for cars without.
Because this device is a complicated mechanical device with many moving/wearing parts and potentiometers, I suspect that they will generally give problems. I can verify that this similar part is having problems on BMWs, VWs, Volvo's, and Saabs, having fixed and read about fixes in all these marques. If Paul's unit was the right unit, seems that you two ought to get together and fix a car.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
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