So this weekend I pulled out my prechambers as they've been leaking for quite some time in the process I noted that two of the injectors (4&5) were out of a 240d. Having spare housings and internals for 300sd injectors I cleaned and replaced everything but the lower cases as they were identical. However my car will not start acts like it almost will and when I tested the injectors out of the engine. I couldn't get the first one to pop. When I tried it on another line it popped just fine. Could my injection pump be bad...or is this a case of injectors needing balanced? Any thoughts on this greatly appreciated. Also to note it was starting fine in 22 degree weather three days before and fired right up the morning before but now it's so so close just never quite fires all the ways

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I just pulled the first two delivery valves cleaned swapped and replaced all o rings crush washers etc. I'm not sure what you mean by thick black disc? There is a piston looking disc type thing at the bottom with a groove cut in it around one side.....should the groove be facing down? That's how I reassembled them. Also there is a very small copper ring underneath those it looks like a crush washer but I couldn't easily get it out so I just cleaned and left in place. I had a thought about if those copper rings need replaced could I just put a small o-ring in the groove of that piston disc thing at the bottom? As far as I can tell there stationary once you tighten the delivery valve down. Letting the battery charge am about to give it a whirl again lol
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:35 PM
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After reattaching fuel injector lines I cranked on it till all the nuts around the top of injectors were leaking. Tightened them down proceded to crank on it again but no pop or fire of any kind. So hoping it's an air bleed situation I crank again while holding down the pedal this time it almost immediately pops and really acts like it wants to fire up. but my battery is drained again cause I really didn't let it charge for more than fifteen mins. Now I'll let it charge for an hour and then try it but damn it really feels better now...keeping our fingers crossed
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Old Yesterday, 06:52 PM
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So still haven't got it fired up but I have a question about the inner working so f the injection pump. I removed the first delivery valve on the IP and pumped fuel through to see if it was flowing smoothly...well it did beautifully but when I stop pumping fuel just drains back into the bottom of the IP no matter how long I pumped..
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Old Yesterday, 06:53 PM
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Is that normal
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Old Today, 10:45 AM
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Ok so some conclusion last night. I finally got it to start on wd 40 after coating my air filter. I did try to spray directly into the intake while cranking but that didn't result in much it did get it to pop a bit. Here's the thing after it was almost running with the starter cranking still. I held down the pedal it bogs a little so I start pump the pedal and it doesn't help. After five or ten seconds of these almost starting/bogging symptoms. It completely just bogs down and doesn't even come close to starting again. Spraying more wd40 seems to help but I'm out now so until I get more I won't know. Also trying to start without it I can get the engine popping but when hitting the pedal it bogs. I've done the valves recently back in December. So I'm wondering if the bogging is from the piston firing to early on the upwards compression stroke?

If I take off the valve cover and align the tdc mark on the camshaft. On the crank pulley I should be able to tell how far out of time it is right?
From what I understand of using this method more than ten degrees out needs to be adjusted?
If I do adjust it by taking off chain tensioner and chain but leaving the camshaft in tdc position. Only rotate the engine clockwise at the crank pulley till it is at tdc, while holding chain tight. Would it align the IP as well?

Before I did this injector pre chamber work the car started kinda hard but was actually starting easier than ever and started right up first try after sitting for twelve plus hours in thirty degree weather the morning I did the work. Drove fine too. So I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around what's going on here. Unless the car has been out of time running on some working fault of the pre chambers or injectors. Now that they are operating more efficiently it's causing the timing issue to be more apparent?

That's my theory anyways let me know what you guys think.

You know this is for gasoline engine cars? There is also a diesel forum.

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