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#1
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Help needed finding a part / solution
G'day Folks,
I get the feeling I'm half way up **** creek with out a paddle! Throttle valve position sensor is bust. It is meant to give a signal of less than one ohm when it is either in the closed or open (WOT) position. It doesn't - it gives more than 2 ohms and this generates an ECU error signal. The switch has part number 126 540 59 45 on it but this is NLA The other numbers (LK <= seems to be Hella) 04 8062 67 and the VDO number 90 003 081 also give me no joy. The diameter of the throttle housing is 60mm. I get the impression the majority of the second hand throttle housing with the switch on the second hand market are of a larger diameter which I assume would mean they won't fit my inlet manifold... ...besides all that is wrong with the mechanism is the switch. Has anyone got any alternative numbers for this switch? The number starting with a 126 gives me the impression it was used with larger engines in the W126 s-class series (although that isn't always the case). ![]() ![]()
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#2
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I hate it when parts are discontinued. I can get just about any part for my 1971 Corvette, but the '93 190E is getting tougher.
Here's one used on eBay.....
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![]() 1993 190E 2.3 2001 SLK230 1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible |
#3
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Quote:
If I have to spend that much I will have to do so. The problem is that I doubt very much if the sensor has been tested. If that also gives an error then I'm sending stuff back... ...I'd rather have a new sensor. Still thanks for your help. That page is bookmarked.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#4
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15 minutes with a stanley knife...
...and I cut off the lid to see how complicated the switch is
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Bloody rocket science (again). I'm going to try some contact spray and see if I can get the main contact that spins under a bit more pressure. I've buggered the top a bit cutting it off but I guess a bit of glue will make that kind of OK again (perhaps)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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Available only with throttle valve, p/n 001 140 90 53.
![]() 126 540 59 45 = 201 540 42 45. |
#6
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Quote:
The classic parts site lists the price for 0011409053 for about 200 euros. Seeing the cost / asking price of the second hand ones at more than half this price I think I'd rather splurge for the new part. Still I'm hoping a bit of contact spray and glue will be all that is needed for now!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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Prost! ![]() |
#8
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You should be able to clean the contacts and glue it back together.
I use a black epoxy for jobs like this. Makes an almost invisible repair. Loctite 11C Hysol part number 1373435. If you get a used replacement, you could drill a small hole and spray some contact cleaner in it. Now that you have one apart you will be able to tell where not to drill. |
#9
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Quote:
Quote:
I was about to PM you about a part number for pins. You helped me before with a part number for the smaller 1.6mm (?) diameter pins that fit in the X11 diagnostic socket - I was wondering if you have the part number for the larger 4mm diameter pins too... ...because... ...I think summit's up with the wire and the connections at the other end of the sensor. The parts inside the switch are so clean - and have now been even more cleaned! But the other end is just grotty. I think that's where the resistance in the system is => ![]()
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#10
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I must correct myself. Pin for x11 diagnostic socket is 2.5mm
Plug for small X11 diagnostic socket? 2.5 mm pin P/N = 011 545 16 28
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#11
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__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#12
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I also found 003 545 44 26 and a 001 545 38 26 but I don't know which would fit your connector. The female looks like 003 545 26 26. I've never bought the 4mm contacts. I usually pick up a supply at the wrecker taking them from inside the cabin or trunk where they are not corroded.
They might clean up OK with a little Brasso or Silvero on a Q tip and then dielectric grease or one of the specialty greases for electrical connectors. Tighten the female contact after cleaning if not replacing. I believe that connector is also used for the blower on a 124 (above the brake booster) and from wires coming from the oil level sensor and starter. Also in blower circuit of MY87 and beyond 126's. These connectors are mounted in the dual firewall so should be corrosion free. Last edited by Rick76; 01-12-2016 at 01:55 PM. |
#13
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That is more of a throttle switch than a throttle position sensor since it turns on and off rather than a variable resistance.
The round connector pins are silver plated, this was MB's solution for making reliable connectors before someone decided to make sealed connectors. These can be cleaned and a bit of grease put on to seal. |
#14
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#15
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If for some reason you can't get this switch going again / can't get another one, a couple of micro switches / industrial limit switches would do the job.
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