I have a 72 280 SE with the injector points and I think that they may have an issue? My mechanic installed electronic ignition on my 72 and then let the car to help another mechanic and then took my car out for a test drive- it ran fine? I went to pick u the car and it wouldn't rev, but did start? the mechanic checked the voltage going to the points and they were getting low voltage ( a couple of them anyway) but could not find any other issues with the car and made the assumption that the injector points needed regapped or cleaned? Does this sound like the issue? Does anyone have any other opinions? I have had the car for 16 years and it has been dependable except for the distributor and the injector points as they have been cleaned previously?

cleaning is possible, regapping the points is not. the system runs on 5v so you will see low voltage. I think he needs more info on djet injection or you need another mechanic. bosch dropped it 75 so I can't entirely fault the tech. good luck, chuck.

Do you think that there just might be a connection between the two highlighted statements?
Installing the "electronic ignition" almost certainly resulted in some change of the ignition timing. Was the timing corrected?

The injection trigger points are an on/off device; they either send a signal to the ECU, or they don't.

Frank and Porkface, thank you for the info.; I will pas on the info to my buddy. There isn't much info on the injector points so people who work on British cars and other German cars may not be familiar with the points .

If you go to the 107 forum on Benzworld or the Vintage forum here on Peachparts, you will find a lot of information on "Trigger Points". That is what they are commonly called. Mercedes have various other names for them like "release contacts" (in engine manual). These points cannot be adjusted. They can be cleaned if they get oil on them, but no abrasive should ever be used. They run at low voltage/current and don't burn out. What does wear, is the fiber cam follower. Unfortunately replacements are very expensive. But this is probably not your problem.

I would first adjust timing. It should be set so it advances to about 27/28 BTDC at 3000rpm. At idle it will be at TDC or maybe 5degBTDC. If you can't get any advance, then there may be something jamming the internals of the distributor (maybe caused by installation of the "electronic" ignition. What was installed? Was it a Pertronix? Sometimes centrigugal advance is jammed anyway. That requires disassembly of distributor to free up the centrifugal weights.

This link shows some pics of the trigger points and the centrifugal advance weights.

D-Jet Distributor Removal & InjectionTrigger Points Repair - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

My friend does many electronic ignition replacements and he did adjust the timing and drove the car a number of miles after the replacement was done ( although I don't think he buried the speedo?). The issue that may have created the problem was that the distributor wasn't tightened and we thought there might have been some damage to the trigger points as the car ran fine immediately? When I went to pick up the car, the car started but it wouldn't rev and wouldn't idle but when my mechanic did rev the engine, the voltage to the increased and opened up the trigger points?( Previously there wasn't enough voltage to the trigger points to open them up(?) ( supposition?). The initial thought was that the trigger points may have been damaged although they were previously checked by a MB mechanic and he did something to them and he told me I shouldn't have any more issues with them?

Porkface/ Frank/ Graham.My friend does many electronic ignition replacements and he did adjust the timing and drove the car a number of miles after the replacement was done ( although I don't think he buried the speedo?). The issue that may have created the problem was that the distributor wasn't tightened and we thought there might have been some damage to the trigger points as the car ran fine immediately? When I went to pick up the car, the car started but it wouldn't rev and wouldn't idle but when my mechanic did rev the engine, the voltage to the increased and opened up the trigger points?( Previously there wasn't enough voltage to the trigger points to open them up(?) ( supposition?). The initial thought was that the trigger points may have been damaged although they were previously checked by a MB mechanic and he did something to them and he told me I shouldn't have any more issues with them?

My friend does many electronic ignition replacements and he did adjust the timing and drove the car a number of miles after the replacement was done ( although I don't think he buried the speedo?). The issue that may have created the problem was that the distributor wasn't tightened and we thought there might have been some damage to the trigger points as the car ran fine immediately? When I went to pick up the car, the car started but it wouldn't rev and wouldn't idle but when my mechanic did rev the engine, the voltage to the increased and opened up the trigger points?( Previously there wasn't enough voltage to the trigger points to open them up(?) ( supposition?). The initial thought was that the trigger points may have been damaged although they were previously checked by a MB mechanic and he did something to them and he told me I shouldn't have any more issues with them?

Russel, It is hard to understand what you are saying (even after reading it 3 times ):
- voltage has nothing to do with opening of the trigger points. Cams on the distributor shaft cause them to open and close.
- If distributor wasn't tightened down, it may have moved and that affects the timing.

If car won't run properly, get the mechanic to put it right.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Graham. Thanks for the information? I have British cars and sometimes there is some difference to the working on the cars? I also have a couple of BMW's, but the trigger points is a strange issue to deal with?

Graham for clarity's sake: My buddy installed the electronic ignition; reset the timing and took the car for a couple of mile test drive ( although I don't think he buried the speedo? He parked the car and when I went to pick the car up, it started and idled weakly but wasn't drivable as it didn't have any power. My mechanic checked and the distributor cap was loose and he tightened it and rechecked the timing but nothing? He then checked the voltage going to the trigger points and discovered that half of the points were opening and the other half weren't and had a very little voltage going to them? When he revved the engine, the points opened up and all of the points were getting more voltage- enough to open the points? His first thought was that something was wrong with the trigger points as he thought he had checked everything else? That is why I asked about the trigger points and regapping them or cleaning them?