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#1
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Heat / AC Problem C230 97
Hi I have been trying to fix these problems since I will be trying to get the paint and body work finished but wanted to get the Heat and AC Problem fixed.
The car does blow cold air at this point. So far I have did the following. 1. Had the "Heater Core" Replaced. 2. Had the "Thermostat" Replaced. 3. Had a "AC Compressor" installed/Replaced. (No feon was added to the car since I was told by a local AC shop that there was a leak by the Firewall area, close to the driver side corner.) 4. Had the "AC High/Low Switch" Replaced, (At the time I had no idea it was missing when I got the car back from a stupid mechanic.) 5. Had the "Receiver Drier/Accumulator" Replaced. NOTE: I have bought a "AC & Heater Control Valve" have not installed it on the car as of yet. The car does not overheat to my knowledge, after installing the new thermostat, it appears to be staying at "87-F". I have did a diagnostic by watching a YouTube video, these are the following results of the test. 1. 73 F - Temp Inside Car. 2. 63 F - Temp Outside Car. 3. 71 F - Heater Core Temp. 5. 71 F - Evap Temp. 6. 204 - Coolant Temp. 7. LO (Like I said I have not added feon to this car at all.) - Bars of Pressure. 8. 107 - Refrigerant Temp. 9. 50 F - (The guy in the video on YouTube said it's not used on his model so I don't know.) 10. 165 - Blower Motor Volts. 20. 00 - Aux Fan 21. 080 - RPMs 22. 000 - Car Speed 23. 100% - Diagnostic Pin Volts 24. 12.9/13.0 - Battery/Alt. Volts 40. 02 - Software ver. 41. 03 - Hardware ver. 42. 18 - Variant Code 43. 6-C - Ver. Code ??? 50. 71 F - (The guy in the video on YouTube said it's not used on his model so I don't know.) 51. HI - (The guy in the video on YouTube said it's not used on his model so I don't know.) 52. 50 F - (The guy in the video on YouTube said it's not used on his model so I don't know.) 54. OFF - Emergency NOT ENABLED. (What was said on the YouTube video.) Well I tried to provide the most information possible. I hope someone out there could help.. thank you. Last edited by jetonetv; 05-26-2013 at 05:04 PM. |
#2
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Not sure, other than the codes listed, what the problem is.
You say it blows cold air, so we can assume the blower motor is working. You say it blows cold air, now normally I assume you mean like 40 degree cold air on AC, yet you say there is no freon (note the "R" in freon), so you mean there is no heat? Do you get only cold air when you are trying to get heat? Need to maybe start with the basics. Where did the stupid mechanic come in to play, was he trying to fix something and instead charged you money to be stupid? Was the car in an accident and things only got worse? If all this work was done including replacing the heater core, and now it also needs an evaporator, man you are going to be really mad.
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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Quote:
When I bought the car it was damaged, (only by the front driver side fender). I have been working on getting the body and paint later on.. but so far can't complain for the price I bought the car for ($700). The car to my knowledge never had working ac or heat when I got it. The ac compressor is new so I know there is no freon. If I turn the cars ac control to HI (heat) it just blows cold air.) If on LO (Cold) same of course this does change upon weather conditions. I have not figured this out yet to confirm. |
#4
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So the work was all done including the heater core? Car is now driveable?
I would start with basics first, if there is no heat, the first thing I would ask you is if the engine temp gauge is getting up into the middle range (normal operating temp) and if the coolant tank is full, because if the coolant is low you won't get good heat. If there is no freon then the AC won't work, so can't really tell if the system is working or not without a freon charge in it, so need to get the system tested for freon leaks first, then charge the system and go from there.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#5
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Quote:
NOTE: In upon explaining I did post the engine gauge temp. "The car does not overheat to my knowledge, after installing the new thermostat, it appears to be staying at "87-F" (Basically in the middle range.) The coolant tank is full (I'm guessing because when my dad installed the thermostat, the car was asking for coolant, (obviously because the lost of coolant.) so I added coolant to the tank and the light went away. The "AC Compressor does not engage, (obviously because no freon. ![]() ![]() I was assuming my last option is the "Duo Valve" (Heater Control Valve) which I did purchase this part, I have no idea how to remove the old one from the car and replace it. |
#6
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Yes, see if the coolant lines running to the heater valve are warm on both sides of the valve with the heat turned all the way up.
It is also possible there is air trapped in the heater core but if you have been driving it a lot it should have burped out by now. You will lose some coolant in removing the hoses but otherwise it should be as easy to replace as it looks.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#7
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Quote:
![]() Is this the "Duo Valve" result or this "Auxiliary Water Pump" ?? And if the "Duo Valve" was not working, wouldn't I have got the following codes from the AC Control? (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO7i_Zj_hJo - fupabox) The only code I did receive was "232 Refrigerant Pressure Sensor" which I have already got fixed by noticing that it was never even installed. I should have also got the following codes right?? 416 Coolant Circulation Pump 417 Left Duovalve (Water Valve) 418 Right Duovalve (Water Valve) But I don't have any more codes??? or I'm maybe I just don't know what I'm talking about... ![]() |
#8
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I would concentrate on getting the heater fixed and forget the AC for now. Until someone puts some freon in it you won't know the problem there.
Yes there should be heat on both sides of the aux pump, it possibly has some obstruction inside it, I agree it should set a code if it isn't working. Or there may be an air lock inside that hose by the pump is maybe another possiblity. Or the pump has failed in such a way that it isn't setting a code, like the impeller is broken,
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#9
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Quote:
I usually purchased the parts from "********" but couldn't find the part there. So I found this one via eBay - As for the "Duo Valve" my dad told me that the part was off another benz that was at the local pick a part. Also the hose after the "Aux Pump" that goes to the "Duo Valve", is the coolant suppose to be coming from the "Aux Pump" to the "Duo Valve", if so wouldn't it that mean the "Aux Pump" is the reason the coolant is not getting to the "Duo Valve".. or is it both??? ![]() Sorry I'm just trying to find solution.. I don't have much knowledge about benz etc.. so anyway... thank you everyone for the help! |
#10
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Well, if you have a meter you might want to see if power is getting to the aux pump before deciding to just replace it. Or you can remove it and see if you can spot any blockage inside the pump. I hate to just have you replacing parts based on just guesses on my part. There might also be a seperate fuse for the aux pump.
Yes the coolant passes through the aux pump then to the heater valve.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#11
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Well just a few minutes ago I gave the car to a benz shop.
S & S Inland Star 2357 E 5th St San Bernardino, CA 92410 (909) 885-6470 S AND S INLAND STAR S & S Inland Star, San Bernardino, CA Hours:Mon-Fri 8 am - 5:30 pm $85 for a full diag, (dropped it off today around 12:00pm) Well now I will await my news.. ![]() |
#12
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Interested in what they come up with, keep us posted.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#13
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Well.. not so good news but I don't know...
1. 2028300184 - AC Expansion Valve. (The guy I spoke to pointed at this area, or the hose.) _________________________________________________________ 1409970745 - O-Ring/Gasket/Seal; Green O-Ring; Expansion Valve to Evaporator; 11x15x2mm 1409970845 - O-Ring/Gasket/Seal; Green O-Ring; 13.8x17.5mm _________________________________________________________ 2. 0018303484 - AC & Heater Control Valve; Dual Circuit for Climate Control. This is confirmed not working because the guy unplugged the old one and simply plugged it up to the one I told him that I already had, you can hear the Valve make a click noise sound on the new one the old one did not make no noise. ![]() 3. 039202002/0018351364 - AC & Heater Control Valve; Auxiliary Water Pump for Climate Control I have actually bought this part got it today which is also a factor for the heat. ![]() I did not get a invoice yet from this place. I just figured I would post the information discovered but I figured as much. I await the paper work I guess... Hopefully I can find someone that knows what there doing to do these jobs... ![]() |
#14
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Well, that's not as bad as needing a evaporator (especially!) or the condensor, it's not that bad of a job. After that of course the AC will need to be purged and recharged, so an extra 100-200. The expansion valve is not that hard to do, neither is the heat valve and aux pump.
In my opinion you could to the expansion valve and service the AC now for summer and plan on doing the heater parts later if you wanted. Ideally it would be better to just do it all, but if you want to spread the work out and want the AC working for summer you could seperate the jobs.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#15
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Here is the scanned document of the report from the benz shop.
http://i.imgur.com/ORlvsim.jpg (Not going to post the actual picture to big. ![]() ![]() ![]() (The 1st one for $476.50, this includes installing the "Heater Control Valve & Aux Water Pump", which is parts that I already have.) Let me know "Gilly". |
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