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79 240d brakes go bye bye....but just for a few minutes?
After about 30 minutes of extreme stop and go traffic this evening I get within 2 redlights of my on ramp to I-75....I cant wait I am almost there! Home Free!
I come to that 2nd to last light and whoa! brake pedal to the floor and I barely got her stopped. I was so glad I was stopping slowly and not slamming on the brakes. I pull off into the gas station parking lot and start pumping them. absolutely NO resistance Straight to the floor. Since I was so close to the open freeway I eased back out into traffic and creeped down the road with my hazards on. I knew I could get her home due to fast moving traffic on 75 at this point. I made it the 20 miles home and did not touch the pedal once until my exit. I prayed..I applied.. and what do ya know....TOTALLY back to normal. Excellent feel and stopping power. 100% back to normal. I even ran a few errands around town late tonight and they seem as if nothing ever happened.. What the hell happened? I would rather get a jump start on this before it goes completely out.. you know? I did noticed this week a squealing sound has started at start up... warm or cold.. like a squealing belt but I cant tell what/where its coming from. Related maybe? Thanks guys in advance. The Town car has not been getting the thumbs up like my 240d....I mean I get at least 3 compliments everyday in the 240...Its gotta be the hubcaps!
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Current stable...... 17' Rogue SV 70k 11’ Saab 9-5 NG 94k 10’ e550 4matic 185k sold 02' e320 210k 00' e430 167k 01' e320 171k (regret sale) 91' 300d 2.5t 300k (sold to ecoofidaho) 79' 240d 177k (old yellow my avatar) 87' 300d 169k (junk but fast) 85' 300tdt 261k (RBM parts delivery) 85' 300dt 68k (one owner cream puff) 82' 240d 250k 84' 300dt 198k (sold to diesel don) 91' 190e 2.3 61k 88' 260e 140k |
#2
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If the pedal dropped to the floor - it went the whole length of the stroke - but you still have the correct fluid level =>
I'd suspect the master cylinder However you should check all parts of a braking system - especially the flexible hoses. If you have leaks / low brake fluid level then you've got more investigative work to do. I hope you checked the fluid level before driving off again.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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I think your brake fluid was boiling. When it boils it is vapor and hence no brake. It could be one of the followings:
1) The caliper got hot when you were in heavy stop and go traffic. 2) The other reason could be your brake is binding and the caliper got hot, hence the fluid boils. 3) You have contamination in your fluid which lowers the boiling point. Check the calipers and then flush all brake fluid. It has to be seen to.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#4
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I agree with the "boiled fluid" theory. Brake fluid that has picked up a lot of water will boil at lower temps, and if one caliper is sticking, you can boil fluid in that caliper blowing the fluid back into the master cylinder. You stopped because you still had the rear brakes, assuming it was a front caliper sticking. See if one wheel center is hotter than the others. If so, that is your problem caliper. Fix it, and use fresh high boiling point Dot 4 fluid.
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'97 E 300 D |
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I had this problem on 76 300D a few years ago after long drives the brake fluid would boil and i would loose brakes until it cooled down. Flushed the brake system with new DOT 4 fluid and i back in business. Brake fluid honestly should be replaced about every 2 years, its a cheap preventative maintenance which will extend the life span of costly brake system parts and will prevent failures which can be dangerous.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#6
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yep - sounds like a boiling problem. I bet if you flush the fluid you may even find it a bit emulsified too and loaded with specks of rust etc.
New fluid always gives great pedal feel no matter what car. If you lack a pressure bleeder and even a helper - this works like a charm. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_9020969-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-9020969&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=9020969&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=&gclid=CPGdlsbwpLcCFU1p7AodgwIA_A#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=9020969 takes an hour tops with 1 quart fluid bottle.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
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