I need to replace my 190e 2.6's motor mounts. The last Benz I did this on was on a '80 300SD. If I remember correctly, per the manual, you lifted the engine, via the oil pan (block of wood in place). Is it the same for the 104 engines?

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Yes, that is what I did with 1991 300CE, raise engine with wood under oil pan.

That's what I thought. also, I obviously got my engine number wrong. My 2.6 is a 103 engine.
It was amazing to me back when I change the mounts on my 300SD, and still amazed now, that the stamped metal oil pan can handle the weight of the motor.

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2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
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Will you post a DIY Article on it after doing it? I checked on the resources and couldn't find anything on this one. Pelican may have one on it later on, I guess??

Rebe, I haven't done it yet, as it has been too hot/humid here in CT. With that said, it is real simple. Undo the motor mount bolts (2) underneath first, place a floorjack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between the two. Undo the bolts on the top of the mounts, and then gently/slowly raise the engine, until you can remove the mounts.

With that said there are alot of cautions to this. Watch the radiator hoses to ensure they don't get ripped off. There is enough wiggle room in all the hoses and lines attached to the engine, to move the engine a bit. You also have to detach the fan shroud.

The only reason I posted the question is because it had been so long since I have done this, I wasn't too sure if that method was being used for the more "modern" cars.

After posting the question, I found and looked at the service manual for the 201 on line, oddly for the 4 cyl engines, it said to use an engine hoist, but for the 6 cyl, to use a block of wood.

Every engine/chassis has it's own methods, I guess. Which car/engine do you have?

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2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
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I respect your write up....but the drivers side is not that simple...it takes tools and a bit of flexibility to get that one out. Passenger side is cake

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IMO; There are only minor variations between the M103 and M104 engine mount.
Pelican Technical Article: Mercedes Benz - Engine Mount Replacement



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I got my new mounts delivered yesterday. They look to be hydraulic and are good and heavy. I am ready to install, but waiting for the temperature to drop next week here! It is 106 outside right now, and that is not to inviting even for a shade tree mechanic.

The driver side can be tricky....I recommend taking the opportunity and remove the distributor body, clean up everything and check the rubber boot. With it removed, you have direct easy access to the mount. Only do this if you are handy though.

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Yeah, right! That would be stupid to do that on a perfect running 103. It doesn't have all those nasty syndromes like: hunting, surging, idling, stalling, won't start, etc., etc., etc. I have a leaking mount is why I am replacing both at the same time. If you go in to the dealer, and he asked to do that to your car for an extra grand. I'm sure you would go for it! It's not a payoff on older cars to renew every possibly failure that might occur, because the parts you might be replacing, aren't as good as, the ones in place.

Well, I finished the motor mounts replacement this morning. I checked the FSM before starting the job. All it called for was removing the fan shroud & the air intake. I did the passenger side first. I worked the top bolt from the top on this side. It was pretty easy, except a bolt in the exhaust that was a little close quarters. I didn't remove the fan shroud or the air intake doing either side. It's a little close, but wasn't a problem when raising the engine. Starting on the driver's side, I pondered it abit. I looked at doing it from the bottom, as well as, the top side. I couldn't find a way to drop extensions down through the manifold slots very well. It might work ok with 2 people. I reverted back to the bottom side. It's where I got it done. The whole job is pretty simple, and no special tools are required. I just used 3/8 inch ratchet & extensions. However the top side of motor mount on the driver's side doesn't get a torque wrench on it. Once doing the job, it could be accomplished in an hour. Then you would have probably a fifteen minute break in the hour, as well. Mine is the 2.6l 6 cyl. I wouldn't thing it is any more difficult to do it on it, as the 4 cyl. model. Once they start leaking they get pretty paned out.

Driver's side- I went through the manifold with a very long extension after trying everything else. Put the socket on the nut first and then plug the extension on the socket. It worked.

I've kind of noticed a different set to the front end now driving down the road. It sets up a little higher. I might add I thought I had a major engine oil leak when it happened pulling on the driveway. Now, that it done, I am kind of glad it happened that way. If it would have happened on the road, and leaked out. I probably wouldn't have known about the motor mount failures. It is something that should be checked periodically doing maintenance under the car. You can measure them easily, and check for seepage.

ps2cho:

Thanks for posting the pics. That helps a lot!