Hello, just completed an engine swap in a 1988 420 sel. I have been adding trans fluid and noticed a bunch on the floor coming from what looks like the top of the trans but I can't see (the vent). I was thinking to turn the motor over to get it to fill up the torque converter so I quickly hooked up the battery to turn the motor over and left the keys in the ignition. I assume that as soon as I hooked up the battery that the doors locked themselves. I have unhooked the battery and they are still locked.
Does anyone know how to bypass the locks? Thanks.

Sorry, Just noticed that I submitted this in the diesel section too.

macdoe, order a new key from your local MB dealer. You will probably need a spare key again some day.

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Fred Hoelzle

Trunk open? Just jump the vac pump if so.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

The hood is open....trunk is closed and locked as well.

Why did this occur exactly? Is this some sort of problem with the system or is it supposed to do this? What manner of how this system works has allowed this to occur?

Has something failed in the master valve? or is the door lock mechanism stuck in a certain direction so as to activate the doors to lock?

This car has been sitting awhile and I have not actually seen it run. I'll check if the drivers side door has been tampered with in the a.m.

Would the valve to control the central locking system be in the d.s door lock mechanism?

macdoe, our 1995 E320 reacts the same way when reconnecting the battery. Fortunately I have a spare key, but I normally make sure not to leave the key in the car and leave the driver's door window down when installing a new battery, or reconnecting the battery after performing maintenance work on the electrical system.

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Fred Hoelzle

Good point on the 2nd key -always have one. Faster may be a locksmith though.

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Prost!

There is a way to unlock W126's easily, but I don't want to post it publicly. I will PM with the instructions

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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD
'07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi)
'13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
'14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi)

Thanks for your pleasant response guys. I appreciate it at this time.

Anyone know how to get into its locked trunk.?

I think, judging by the responses, is that the only way I will get in is to have a new key made at the dealership or start wrecking stuff. I live out of town so a locksmith will be too expensive.

Dealership key requires the title in your name and of course ID. MB of Nashville quoted me $16, other dealers have been more expensive.

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

Got it with a coat hanger, thanks for your help guys.

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How? By prying the door open?

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Yes , unfortunately.... I pryed the door open probably a total of a half inch- three quarters of an inch at the top of the door in between the front and rear door glass frames.

I wrapped the gooseneck end of a small stanley prybar with electrical tape so as not to scratch it...but I should have wrapped the coat hanger too cause there was some slight scratching on the door frame from the hanger , noticed afterward.

I worked at it off and on for three to four hours....my feet were freezing and my hands would cramp from grasping the thin hanger so I took some breaks.

I was a bit worried when prying that I might shatter the glass so I took it real slow... Wear safety Glasses and Like Diesel 911 says, keyword is "patience". Don't break the window with the prybar by letting it slip out of your hands...I had some close calls with cramping hand muscles.

Not much fun in the cold, at least it was under shelter...will be getting a spare key at the dealership as soon as possible so as not to have to repeat this fiasco'.

This car is not very easy to get into at all...I'd recomend to have spare keys for this car as was recomended for sure.

Since I know have a key to duplicate: can the dealership cut me a spare with proper title and i.d.? Or is the key still ordered from somewhere?

Thanks again.

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Most dealerships dont cut any keys any more, they order one from the parts depot, by VIN # usually overnight. They are steel, as compared to brass that some locksmiths use, and not copies from your key.

I thinks this was the right option in this condition ,.
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