W124 Idler arm bushing importance.... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JohnM. · #1 11-01-2011, 10:21 PM

How much would a bad idler arm bushing affect steering? I replaced all the tie rods, drag link, and dampener. Also threw on a Sportline front sway bar w/ new bushings. Steering is much improved, especially on turn-in. Fresh alignment and it drives great in general.

However, I am still having "nervous" on-center steering, tramlining, etc. To a less degree than I was before all the work, but still I have to fight to keep it on center, very annoying. Idler arm bushing?

ds190 · #2 11-03-2011, 08:50 AM

Check the ball joints and lower control arm bushings as well. Remember that the rear suspension multi-link bushings can affect the ride.

Don't know about idle arm wear- steering play? Wheel shimmy right side?

d.delano · #3 11-03-2011, 12:06 PM

Reality is the w124 suspension bushes in your car, with the exception of the items you have already replaced, are 24 years old. Think about that. It's a complicated system with all components desgned to work in concert as a team. Replace one component, reveal another's weakness. Just because the bushes look OK doesn't mean they are. The only way to restore the proper MB ride is to blitzkrieg the entire underchassis. Of course that's expensive, time-consuming, and arduous. It requires a million dollars worth of special tools. You can kludge homemade tools up, but they're not as good or easy to use as the proper ones.
Replace the idler arm, can't hurt. Don't expect it to cure anything. It might make it a little bit better. I have heard though that if you want a brand new car replace everything that's rubber or has a boot on it underneath the car.

JohnM. · #4 11-03-2011, 12:36 PM

Shocks - New
Springs - New
Front Tie Rods / Dampener - New
Front Sway Bushings - New
Rear Subframe Bushings (Front 2) - New
Rear Dogbones - ~50% new (others are tight)

The front control arm bushings and ball joints are the only things that haven't been replaced, although the boots are still intact and there is no discernible play.

I will replace the idler arm and report back. Also, my car is only 20 years old.

d.delano · #5 11-03-2011, 02:20 PM

I was thinking yours was an 88 for some reason. 20 years though, still.

Looks like you just about have it licked then. You're on the pig's back, keep going.

ScotzBenz · #6 12-20-2011, 01:46 PM

New tires yesterday and shop says my Idler Arm needs a repair kit prior to aligning. We're under a 1992 400E, 215k miles - probalby time. Looks pretty straight forward, but any tricks to this? Breaking the nut free looks like it may be "fun", given the space provided, no rust however. Given that that's achieved:

- Is dis-assembly and reassembly best done with the wheels grounded or in the air? I'm thinking minimal tension on everything would be best/essential.

- How about bushing removal, given I do not have the MB special tools suggested in the shop manual?

Any experience out there much appreciated. Scott

S124300 · #7 12-21-2011, 10:23 AM

The idler arm bushes wear and will give free play in the straight ahead position. Easy to change: a standard tool kit sufficed. The steering damper makes a massive difference to straight ahead stiffness feel. If it is original, replace it.
Our 1992 300E felt very slightly soft after 17 years: the rear suspension bushes were all on the way out when removed and checked, although they felt decent on the car.

BAD300 · #8 12-21-2011, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScotzBenz

.....Looks pretty straight forward, but any tricks to this? Breaking the nut free looks like it may be "fun".....

I found removing the tie rod assembly off the steering arm to be murder. Had to belt the crap out of it & broke chunk off my hammer

The drag link & pass tie rod assembly was easy enough.

Removal of idler bolt is easy. I just did mine but I'm not sure about bush removal or even worse, replacement? I would have thought you'd need to press them in/out? Anyone know exactly how & what tool?

Rahulio1989300E · #9 12-22-2011, 04:13 PM

I also just got done replacing my passenger tie rod, drag link, and steering shock.

I originally replaced my steering shock at 186K, but it was completely loose and worn at 214K. I think my part failed before it's time.

All that is left is a front end alignment, just need to find a good shop that I can trust, I might go to the dealership...

When I had everything disconnected, I tried to replace the idler are bushings, but my catalytic converter (1 of 2) is sitting right above the large idler arm bolt.

BAD300 · #10 12-22-2011, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rahulio1989300E

I also just got done replacing my passenger tie rod, drag link, and steering shock.

I originally replaced my steering shock at 186K, but it was completely loose and worn at 214K. I think my part failed before it's time.

All that is left is a front end alignment, just need to find a good shop that I can trust, I might go to the dealership...

When I had everything disconnected, I tried to replace the idler are bushings, but my catalytic converter (1 of 2) is sitting right above the large idler arm bolt.

not good........I didn't have the trouble you did with idler arm as my car is RHD. It is an 87' so don't think it even has a steering damper?

Also, the suspension seems very simple up front in mine which I prefer when it comes to maintenance, especially as I'll be changing most of the suspension parts in the front soon......

ScotzBenz · #11 12-26-2011, 08:38 PM

Thanks for the feedback. Got to work this afternoon - clearly need a tool for the tie rod and drag link removal/installation. Any DIY suggestions for this? I was able to remove idler arm nut an free the bolt. Removed the bottom bushing with a slide hammer puller - easy enough and could probably be done with simpler tools as one is actually pulling on steel that's part of the bushing itself.

Now, as Rahulio suggested, with that top bushing in place one cannot draw the bolt out straight on 400E 119,V-8. 4"/10cm is about the max at which point you hit the exhaust system. I believe that I read earlier that pushing out the top bushing allows enough free movement in the bolt to get it up and out of that tight space. I'm thinking a piece of the correct size pipe will help to get that top bushing out with bolt still there.

Assembly would be the opposite with the bolt in-place as the top bushing is installed. My plan at this point is to use the old nut and using the idler bolt & hardware itself with some heavy washers on the bottom to press first the top bushing into position, then a rubber mallet for the bottom bushing and that same setup to press the bushings as a pair into position - I can see no other way to do this, shy of removing the exhaust system, and there's no mention of the need to do this in the MB shop manual. Any thoughts out there?

Weather was turning for the worse, so I just put everything back together for now. I'll try to work on this in the next couple of days and post on any developments.

davidmash · #12 12-29-2011, 12:08 AM

I just replaced the idler are bushings on my 190 and it was pretty easy. Had to loosen the motor mount to raise the engine a bit for clearance.

As for the tie rods there is a special tool (I bought it when I did mine). Made the job much easier with very little cussing or bruised knuckles.

ScotzBenz · #13 02-14-2012, 06:23 PM

As a point of reference this is a '92 400e w/V8. Per my previous posting below the Idler Arm Bushing / Repair Kit was not rocket science. What I didn't realize at the time of writing is that the bushing came out separately from the rubber mounting sleeve on top, so perhaps that would have afforded some of the clearance necessary to get past the exhaust.

In any case I did follow my plan as below - the only real hangup was that having pressed in the top bushing the bolt length was just shy of what was needed to get the nut onto the bottom with the bottom bushing in place, ready to seat it properly. A floor jack angled with some wood blocks and topped with a large socket made this possible, if not easy.

Seated it far enough in place to get the nut on and completely seat it with the old locking nut. Removed that and replaced with the new locking nut that I torqued to spec. Job Done

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScotzBenz

I believe that I read earlier that pushing out the top bushing allows enough free movement in the bolt to get it up and out of that tight space. I'm thinking a piece of the correct size pipe will help to get that top bushing out with bolt still there.

Assembly would be the opposite with the bolt in-place as the top bushing is installed. My plan is to use the old nut and using the idler bolt & hardware itself with some heavy washers on the bottom to press first the top bushing into position, then a rubber mallet for the bottom bushing and that same setup to press the bushings as a pair into position - I can see no other way to do this, shy of removing the exhaust system, and there's no mention of the need to do this in the MB shop manual.

Weather was turning for the worse, so I just put everything back together for now. I'll try to work on this in the next couple of days and post on any developments.

JamesDean · #14 08-07-2012, 07:55 PM

JohnM,

I realize this is an older post but did you ever cure your nervous center issue? My 190E is having the same issue! Its probably worse for wear than your car. After fooling around with it a little bit today I've discovered that the passenger side wheel seems easier to move around (with front end lifted up) than the driver side. I wonder if that in any way points to the idler arm bushing.

Thanks!

-Kris

Adler · #15 08-08-2012, 12:25 PM

Now I wonder if the replacement suspension bushing is of the same high quality as the original ones.. Its a major undertaking to do a complete front rear suspension bushing replacement and has to last.
any experinced guidance?
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