Long story short, my lock barrel jammed and when I tried to unjam it. I broke the key. After about 8 hours with an air hammer (not knowing what I was doing) and killing my dremel. I was able to get the old ignition lock off. Today, I replaced the lock, barrel and steel cover with new parts and everything went back together quite smoothly. However, the shift lock would not release. I can remove the cable from the lock assembly and press down on the pin which would release it but the ignition lock itself will not

Any ideas why?

Failing that, I'm thinking of screwing in a cap over the lock (assuming I can find a cap of the right thread size) so it that the pin is permanently depressed.

Is this a feasible workaround?

Thanks

__________________
With best regards

Al

There is a cam plate assembly that needs to be transferred from the old part. It's a plastic plate about 8mm thick and resides between the ign switch and the lock housing. Have the two steering locks side by side before you begin. I's very easy to confuse the plate's orientation so it is best to transfer it immediately to the awaiting new part. You can confirm its operation by observing the metal contact for the cable release moving outward as you turn the key.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

After hammering away at it for 5 hours (no kidding) with an air chisel, there really isn't much left of the old cylinder.

If there's a part number for that part, I would love to know it.

Any thoughts about plan B?

__________________
With best regards

Al