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  #1  
Old 02-24-2011, 02:42 AM
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Copper spray on head gasket?

Has anyone ever done this? I have never used the copper spray on a head gasket install and I am about to redo the head on my 300E 2.6 and I want to make sure all goes well. Thoughts?

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  #2  
Old 02-24-2011, 03:17 AM
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I wouldn't do it. I understand that the point of a head gasket is that is provides a good seal - not that it is easy to remove when you come to do the job again.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:50 AM
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It sounds like an other form of snake oil to me!!
I have heard of people using copperkote anti seize on some old head gaskets in 50 year old stationary low speed motors. Maybe you could use a snake skin & cut out the gasket shape!! Wasnt there a TV series decades ago called green acres that made one out of some pastry? (I'm being silly now!!)
Best get a nice new proper head gasket & clean both head & block.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:55 AM
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That's what I thought. I have only done 3 engine rebuilds and never once used it. That's why I was confused.
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  #5  
Old 02-24-2011, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
X2 Army.
It sounds like an other form of snake oil to me!!
I have heard of people using copperkote anti seize on some old head gaskets in 50 year old stationary low speed motors. Maybe you could use a snake skin & cut out the gasket shape!! Wasnt there a TV series decades ago called green acres that made one out of some pastry? (I'm being silly now!!)
Best get a nice new proper head gasket & clean both head & block.
I don't remember that one - but I did once see a program of an amazing African bushman repairing the axle of his Series 2A Land Rover with the root of particular tree... after walking for a day to find the tree - dug it up - then he went back fixed it and drove the gazillion miles home without really taking it easy...

...perhaps he's got some snake solutions up his sleeve...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 02-24-2011, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado220 View Post
That's what I thought. I have only done 3 engine rebuilds and never once used it. That's why I was confused.
Sounds like a plan - good luck with the rebuild.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 02-24-2011, 08:17 AM
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Don't use anything on that type gasket.

MB head gaskets for that engine have embedded epoxy & during the heating/cooling cycles it will seal "pores" in the head/block surfaces.

When you first re-start the engine, do NOT install the radiator cap until the engine gets hot & then cools down.
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  #8  
Old 02-24-2011, 08:57 AM
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The copper spray is for old timey stamped steel gaskets which were used on old porous cast blocks. Haven't seen a stamped steel gasket in 25+ years. I used it often on old 4 cylinder Perkins/Dorsett/Dagenheim diesel engines of the 1960's- 1970's era.

Absolutely useless on the newer multi-component gaskets we have now and in fact it's probably worse than useless as any excess could conceivably end up in the lubrication system.
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2011, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbdoc View Post
Don't use anything on that type gasket.

MB head gaskets for that engine have embedded epoxy & during the heating/cooling cycles it will seal "pores" in the head/block surfaces.

When you first re-start the engine, do NOT install the radiator cap until the engine gets hot & then cools down.
That's an interesting tip. I haven't read that in the FSM (yet?). Is this to help the epoxy in the gasket do its job? => Like don't over cook it the first time?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:14 AM
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to jump in-it's not a temp thing, it's pressure. the epoxy needs the heat to melt and the pressure can blow it out before it has a chance to set. once it cools, then the cap can be used. good luck, chuck.
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  #11  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:20 AM
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Here is that info on sealing. heat the engine before allowing pressure on gasket.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf M104 HEAD gasket curing.pdf (46.5 KB, 272 views)
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  #12  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:24 AM
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Cheers to porkface and mbdoc - I'm learning and learning (and hopefully others too)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #13  
Old 02-24-2011, 11:16 AM
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Yes ,Most informative !
I had read about Hylomar (R.R) being used on certain head gasket applications.

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