My w124 evaporator removal thread

[compu_85]

Originally Posted by LarryBible

It is illegal to do so today, but in the old days (Yep, I'm plenty old enough to remember them) we would "sweep" the system with just a small blow of refrigerant before sealing and evacuating....

Guess what this stuff is?



That's the non flammable version. On the back of the can it reads "Contains 100% Tetrafluoroethane". Well gee, I wonder what that could be The EPA says it's ok to spray into the air though!!!

-Jason

[fred1948]

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Would any of these do the trick?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhc/R-100507542/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I have used a similar product made by Pella for its intended purpose and think that it would work if you can peel the facing material off so that it is sticky on both sides. You might have to build up several layers to get it thick enough.

or

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31955-1410-V25WA_0_?productId=3032580&Ntt=window%20tape&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=window%20tape$y=0$x=0
I don't think that this would work.

The butyl rubber that I used was in a rope form that was about 3/8" dia.

[ps2cho]

I'm having trouble with the expansion valve...

Any of you guys remember how you got the nut unbolted that resides in between the two high/low side pipes? I can't get a socket in, nor will a wrench fit Not enough space between the two pipes.
It is my last step before I pull the box out. Already disconnected the r/d.

It's been a long time for me. Is this an Allen or is it a 10MM hex. I remember that it was a challenge when I replaced my expansion valve, but I don't remember how I did it. I have a very thin wall, short 10MM box end that I might have used. I do remember that it is one that will try your patience 1/12th of a turn at a time.

Sorry I can't help. It's one of those things you just work through.

[fred1948]

I think that I used a 1/4" drive socket but my memory has failed me before. I don't remember it being much of an issue.

[babymog]

1/4" socket and a flex-extension.

[ps2cho]

Hooray






That is quite the dirt buildup!!!!
And definitely leaking!

My heater core looks close to perfect...Only 1/2 bent fins...should I just leave it be or do these heater cores tend to leak at xxx miles?
If I chose not to replace it, what is the safest way to properly clean and flush it?

I am definitely replacing the pods LOL. Overall this took me ~5hrs for removal and box dis-assembly. But I'd rather not do this again...

I am seeing enough firewall now to tell that you made it.

As long as the coolant has been changed regularly, and it's not leaking, I wouldn't worry about the heater core.

[ps2cho]

Well prior history was not great...when I got the car the coolant was black. I've changed it about 3x and when I drained the coolant this time it came out clean with no other discolorations so I think all the junk has finally been cleaned out. No leaks. I should be OK?

[compu_85]

Yeiks! That makes me want to clean my evaporator

-J

[ps2cho]

What chemicals would be best for flushing my heater core? I've heard white vinegar? I've flushed already with hot water and it is coming out clean, but I just want to go that extra step for safety.
I've picked pods over heater core...for better or for worse...Since I always use the correct Zerex G-05 and with the right intervals, I think I should last. Yes not ideal prior maintenance...but the car OTOH only has 88k miles.

Side question...Is the blower motor replaceable w/o pulling the box? It seems that way, but just double checking.

[macdrone]

Blower motor is replaceble from engine bay under the wiper assembly. Regulator is under the blower.

BTW good job on the pull apart. That whole thing scares me to death. Glad my A/C works. (knock on wood)

[Hirnbeiss]

I wouldn't flush the core if it has flow. That might remove some deposits, but at the same time it uncovers areas for new corrosion to start. Copper and aluminum benefit from having scale or oxidation layers to prevent further corrosion.
I still think you're gambling here and would replace the core of your 23-year-old. OTOH, I guess you don't need heat that often in SoCal. If it does leak, seal it off and wear a jacket.

I agree with the first paragraph of the post above. I would not flush it any further. Since the core has made it through several coolant changes, I don't think it will give trouble. With this statement I offer a disclaimer, however. It's all a crap shoot. Just because I think that it will be okay, doesn't mean that it will be.

[ps2cho]

Makes sense. If it does leak not a big deal. I'll take the gamble of heater core over the pods.

Going to clean up my box and start putting everything back together today.

I noticed there was a metal screen attached to the rear of the old evap. Should I transfer it over or is it not necessary?