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#1
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Engine Running!!!
My engine runs!!
After a couple (few?) of months (3 weeks waiting for a chain press) I got the 190E 2.6 running. I haven't put it in gear yet. I still have it up on stands. Tomorrow I will check for leaks, etc. It fired up right away, but took alot of cranking to get it so it would run smoothly. I'm glad everybody is asleep, there was smoke everywhere! I hope that is not uncommon. I would think there is alot to burn off. When I shut it down, it still would not idle by itself, but it had not run that long yet. The air filter etc. is still not on yet. There is a vacuum operated contraption next to the fuel distributor that has a black hose running straight at the valve cover. Where does this attach? Does anyone know? I hope this holds up. I didn't put a ton of money into this, but it was quite enough for me. A synopsis: Broken timing chain at speed bent all but two valves. Also had extremely low oil pressure while hot. Did complete valve job. New chains, rails, guides, gears, sprocket, oil pump, oil pressure sender, all new seals, motor mounts, rod and main bearings. Total cost including machine shop ~ $1200. I would like to thank everybodys help in this forum. You are all great! You can pat yourselves on your back
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#2
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Mike,
GRRREAT!!! Good work! Yes, there will always be lots of smoke for awhile, the oil in the cylinders from assembly will sometimes take a half hour to burn out. There are always bugs to iron out after major surgery like this and I'm sure you'll get them all taken care of. The not idling situation could very well be a vacuum leak. It might be related to the hose you can't properly locate. I'm sorry I can't help more with that. Hang in there and work through it. It feels good doesn't it? Have a great day, |
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Here is the part with the hose. Where does it connect to?
The fuel line connects to this. Neither I nor anyone else here at Visteon can think of what the heck it is.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#4
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Other than a pressure regulator with a vacuum line. Why would it have that?
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#5
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Stray Vacuum Line
Your mysterious stray vacuum line could be connected to the air cleaner or the breather hose from the valve cover which leads to the air cleaner. Look at both of these (probably off of the car right now) for the possible answer.
I had a similar issue with my V8, see the following thread. Tip for V8 Owners By the way, the device on my car which had the vacuum line looked just like yours and was located right by the intake, just like yours. My vacuum hose was a plastic 3/16" hose, unlike your hose which extends to the left in your picture. I don't know what the device is either, some kind of fuel pressure regulator? Good Luck! Tom
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CloudNine '89 560SEC |
#6
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THAT'S IT!
I remember. There is a small nipple on the underside of the breather hose from the valve cover. This hose connects to it. What it is for, I still don't know. Thanks.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#7
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Yep, that's where it goes. Last time I changed my air filter I broke the vacuum tube because it was old and brittle. I got some replacement tubing at the auto parts store and re-plumbed it.
There's a little elbow on that big rubber tube that goes from the valve cover to the top of the air cleaner housing. It just pokes into that little elbow. It doesn't seem to me that there would be much of a signal there. Maybe it's monitoring for positive crankcase pressure which would indicate that the PCV system is not functioning. I doubt that's causing your idle problem, but it's worth hooking it up. Also, I would put the air filter in because the fuel system is probably expecting a certain amount of vacuum in the airbox. Congrats!
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D.H. 04 ML500 02 E430 Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it. |
#8
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Boy was I worried with all the smoke that thing put out. I was sure that I had a coolant leak and was burning water too! I put on the bumper and air box and took it for a drive. The rear pads were stuck to the rotor but they loosened up. Drove it a mile or two back and forth. The temp was way up when I drove in which made me realize that I couldn't ghave been burning water because there wasn't any in the block until the thermostat opened up. That took all the coolant I had in the radiator which is why it got hot. I should have removed one of the plugs on top of the head and fillled the block with coolant.
That was last night at about 2am. Went out again tonight after tightening up the power steering pully bolts. I guess I didn't torque them down and the pully was wobbling all over the place. Got those tightened and drove about 4 mile at about 50 mph. Can't really notice any smoke any more but it feels like it's not hitting on all cylinders. I'll pull plug wires and see if I can find one that doesn't make any difference when pulled. This is the best part... The oil pressure now will only go down to 1.5 bar when hot now! It used to go to ZERO before the rebuild. Change the rear pads and fix the muffler and I just may pat myself on the back.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#9
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The miss has gone away with a few miles under her belt. I just changed the oil and filter after the first 120 miles. I noticed a small oil leak coming from the upper timing cover. It is from the center of the base and I am not sure yet if it is from the rubber seal or from the camshaft seal behind the distributor. I think it is from the cam seal. It is a new seal of course, so I don't know why it would be leaking.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#10
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Michael:
Congrats on a job well done! The hose is a vent line -- goes to the crankcase ventilation hose, I think. If there is fuel in it, the regulator is leaking and needs to be replaced. Oil burning off is normal -- can be quite spectacular if you used a lot of oil in assembly as you should. The front cover leak, alas, is probably a rolled or cut rubber seal. This is a pain in the butt, and even my mechanic doesn't always get it the first try. The trick is to have the head clean and dry -- wipe down with solvent, make sure the seal slot is completely free of crud. Install seal dry, no sealant, no grease, nothing. Put a tiny spot of RTV on each corner, apply the correct amount of RTV to cover or head (I dont' rememeber which now), then very lightly grease the bottom of the cover, start it on the pins, and force down and back to install. The amount of grease is critical -- you must have enough to get the cover to slide over the seal, but not so much that it will get in the slot. Probably one of those things one gets very good at with practice! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! Last edited by psfred; 12-09-2001 at 07:19 PM. |
#11
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Is the grease on the bottom of the cover just to help it slide over the rubber seal? I think I installed mine bottom first. Everything was clean and I did put sealant on the seal at the rear facing contact points.
The reason I thought it was the cam seal is because I think the oil may be coming from behind the distrubuter which means the cam seal. I will wipe it dry and take a look. Here's a photo of the installed cover.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#12
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Michael:
If there is oil in the distributor, the cam seal is leaking. If not, the rubber seal for the front cover is leaking. The grease is ONLY to allow the cover to slide over the seal -- it must be "dry" to seal after installation. One of those engineering oddities one finds in MB engines once in a while. Why not provide a flat in there instead of a rubber seal? Did you put the cam seal in right way round? That is, taper side in? The pressure on the lip should press it onto the cam to seal it, not allow oil to be pushed back out. Easy to get backwards, it fits both ways, unlike the front main seal that has a flange on it. It is also possible to cut it if there is a sharp edge on the cam somewhere -- if it is leaking, take a look, you may want to take a file and smooth the slot, all sides, where the distributor connects. A burr here will take a nip out of the seal where it touches the cam during installation, and it will leak. At least you don't have to do major disassembly of the distributor to fix this -- the seal on the Volvo four cylinder is behind the drive dog -- I bought an extra at the dump it was so hard to get off, I was sure I would break something! If that's the only problem you have, you are doing better than we usually do! We took one transmission apart three times before giving up and taking to the tranny shop (no second gear!) -- the previous idiot had taken the slip rings off the stator support and hadn't replaced some of them! I'm not sure why I and my brother both missed it, but we did. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! Last edited by psfred; 12-09-2001 at 07:14 PM. |
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