Hi All,

I have a problem: I cannot remove the rear disc on my 2000 W202 touring. I obviously have removed the retaining bolt and I have loosened the brake shoe threaded stick inside the hub. It seems that the disc is rusted onto the hub in or around the middle. Any ideas? Someone recommended torching. What torch should I use? Where should I torch it? If torched, does the wheel bearing grease need to be replaced?

Thanks,

Greg

__________________
1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)

Big hammer

__________________
Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Tried the big rubber hammer (I do not want to damamge the disc); won't budge. I guess I will have to use a propane torch to heat it up around the hub.

__________________
1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)

Is it a drum or a disc?

If it's a drum, you need at least a 4lb sledge hammer (a rubber hammer won't loosen anything - especially anything wheel related), and you need to smack the bejeezus out of the drum squarely between the lug bolts. Use the lugnut tightening sequence, and keep hammering it until it comes off. I've had drums take half an hour & two techs to get off before - it just takes persitence.

Oh, and you are striking the outside-facing portion, correct? Never hit a drum on the edge or "from the car outwards".

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

it's a disc/drum; it is more like a disc. I tried hammering the part where it is attached to the hub with a regular hammer as well.

__________________
1983 560SL Megasquirted (originally 380SL)

My former Mercedes:
1985 300SD ~190k
1990 560SEL
2000 C220 CDI
1983 380SEC 102k dual-chain conversion
2000 C280 70k (sold)
1987 300DT (W124 - sold)
1972 220D (sold)
1971 220D (sold)

BFH = Big F'ing Hammer.

You need a BIG hammer - not a rubber one or a regular framing hammer.

Whack the middle around the hub and put some effort into it.

__________________
Robert Fini

'12 ML350 BlueTec, 87k
'06 E320CDI, 270k
'05 T1N Sprinter 2500/Pleasure-Way Plateau TS, 69k
'97 C36AMG, 313k (son's)
'94 E320T, 249k
'93 190E Sportline LE, 168k (daughter's)
'84 190E-2.3/5spd (Stage Rally Racer)
'66 230 W110 Sedan (Barn Find, Vintage Racer build in progress)

What he said. Using a regular hammer on a drum is like using a squirt gun to put out a house fire.

Just pony up for an "engineering sledge" or something similar and pound away - you can probably find one for around $12 at your local hardware store. And go for a MINIMUM of 3lbs. 4lbs is better. Remember, the more weight, the less effort it takes.

__________________
A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.

Plus a can of Liquid Wrench to lube things up before you use the hammer. LR, torch, BIG hammer, as close to the center of the hub as possible.....took me 2 hours