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  #1  
Old 01-08-2009, 04:53 PM
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103 front cover seal

I am replacing the front top timing cover seal on my 103 1990 124. I cannot get the "rotor driver" to come out. It is STUCK. I tried using the rotor bolts as a "puller" against the top cover but even that didn't get it loose. Yes, I have removed the T30 Torx bolt.

What's the secret to this?

Thanks



This is from the DIY section to help you ID the part:

Step Three: Remove the rotor and the rotor driver
Take the 3mm hex key (allen wrench) and use it to remove the rotor. Once the rotor is removed you'll find a single Torx bolt behind it. Use the T30 Torx bit on a ratchet to remove it. Once this bolt is removed you'll be able to pull out the bracket that the rotor gets bolted to. This is called the "rotor driver". Once the rotor driver is free you can take out the orange plastic disc.

Attached Thumbnails
103 front cover seal-torx.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:15 AM
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Mine just took a good amount of wiggling to get it out, but it wasn't too bad. Try all different angles or maybe it needs a small knock with a rubber mallet to get the thing unstuck.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:24 AM
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Yea man, I have had to break one or two of them that i have done. They can get seized pretty tight. A new one isnt too much. If it doesnt come out by wiggling it, you may have to do this. Try tapping around on it with a brass punch ,or somthing soft.But be careful!
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2009, 01:31 AM
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Wiggle and pull, repeat. It could take a while...
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2009, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clm View Post
Yea man, I have had to break one or two of them that i have done.
How do you break it, exactly?

Thanks
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2009, 09:23 AM
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Break the little tabs off with a hammer or plyers. Then you can slide the insulator and cover off the front. (you will really tear up the seal). With it all off, You can tap on it lightly sideways to work it free.You can get a better hold on it with all that stuff out of the way. Put some anti seive on the new one!-Make sure you have a new one first! There are 2 different styles.
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2009, 12:47 PM
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I bought a can of CRC Freeze Off. Try that on the rotor drive. Mine came out but it was tight. Yours may have some rust.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2009, 04:15 PM
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I recently completed removed mine...

I used of of those "S" shape screwdrivers with the flat blade behind the rotor drive. I also use a lot of liquid wrench lubricant. Becareful!!!! Do not break the orange ring...
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2009, 07:44 PM
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Thumbs up

Be careful with trying to pry, I had mine break.
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  #10  
Old 01-13-2009, 06:23 PM
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OK, this is how I did it: Those are just strips of aluminum underneath the screws taken from the rotor.
Attached Thumbnails
103 front cover seal-img_3548_1.jpg   103 front cover seal-img_3550_1.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 01-13-2009, 06:41 PM
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That looks a different than mine...

You can see it here...
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103 front cover seal-img_0319.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2009, 11:27 PM
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They did change the design along the way. Yours is an '86 and mine is a '91.
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2009, 10:45 AM
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Hidalgo; ceramic-coated exhaust?
I don't even want to see your vaslve cover.

DG
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  #14  
Old 01-14-2009, 05:49 PM
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Actually...

It is not ceramic coated. It is some kind of metal coating I had done a few years back...Yes, it is holding beatiful. It is a lot cheaper than ceramic coating. My valve cover is powder coated but, it needs to be redone. I though the valve cover was going to outlast the exhaust. Go figure!
Attached Thumbnails
103 front cover seal-img_0306.jpg   103 front cover seal-img_0052.jpg  
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  #15  
Old 01-14-2009, 06:07 PM
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Mr Hidalgo,

Thanks for posting those pics of your very nice engine bay. I have a couple of quick questions:

1) What was the stuff you used for coating the exhaust?

2) I want to powder coat my valve cover too. How did you remove the old paint? I tried a wire brush but it is removing more aluminum than paint.


Thanks,


-tp

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