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#1
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103 front cover seal
I am replacing the front top timing cover seal on my 103 1990 124. I cannot get the "rotor driver" to come out. It is STUCK. I tried using the rotor bolts as a "puller" against the top cover but even that didn't get it loose. Yes, I have removed the T30 Torx bolt.
What's the secret to this? Thanks This is from the DIY section to help you ID the part: Step Three: Remove the rotor and the rotor driver Take the 3mm hex key (allen wrench) and use it to remove the rotor. Once the rotor is removed you'll find a single Torx bolt behind it. Use the T30 Torx bit on a ratchet to remove it. Once this bolt is removed you'll be able to pull out the bracket that the rotor gets bolted to. This is called the "rotor driver". Once the rotor driver is free you can take out the orange plastic disc.
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#2
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Mine just took a good amount of wiggling to get it out, but it wasn't too bad. Try all different angles or maybe it needs a small knock with a rubber mallet to get the thing unstuck.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#3
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Yea man, I have had to break one or two of them that i have done. They can get seized pretty tight. A new one isnt too much. If it doesnt come out by wiggling it, you may have to do this.
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#4
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Wiggle and pull, repeat. It could take a while...
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Current cars: 2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles 2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles 1995 S320, 207k Miles |
#5
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How do you break it, exactly?
Thanks
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#6
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Break the little tabs off with a hammer or plyers. Then you can slide the insulator and cover off the front. (you will really tear up the seal). With it all off, You can tap on it lightly sideways to work it free.You can get a better hold on it with all that stuff out of the way. Put some anti seive on the new one!-Make sure you have a new one first! There are 2 different styles.
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#7
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I bought a can of CRC Freeze Off. Try that on the rotor drive. Mine came out but it was tight. Yours may have some rust.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#8
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I recently completed removed mine...
I used of of those "S" shape screwdrivers with the flat blade behind the rotor drive. I also use a lot of liquid wrench lubricant. Becareful!!!! Do not break the orange ring...
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J.H. '86 300E |
#9
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Be careful with trying to pry, I had mine break.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. ![]() '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#10
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OK, this is how I did it: Those are just strips of aluminum underneath the screws taken from the rotor.
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#11
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That looks a different than mine...
You can see it here...
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J.H. '86 300E |
#12
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They did change the design along the way. Yours is an '86 and mine is a '91.
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#13
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Hidalgo; ceramic-coated exhaust?
I don't even want to see your vaslve cover. DG |
#14
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Actually...
It is not ceramic coated. It is some kind of metal coating I had done a few years back...Yes, it is holding beatiful. It is a lot cheaper than ceramic coating. My valve cover is powder coated but, it needs to be redone. I though the valve cover was going to outlast the exhaust. Go figure!
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J.H. '86 300E |
#15
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Mr Hidalgo,
Thanks for posting those pics of your very nice engine bay. I have a couple of quick questions: 1) What was the stuff you used for coating the exhaust? 2) I want to powder coat my valve cover too. How did you remove the old paint? I tried a wire brush but it is removing more aluminum than paint. Thanks, -tp |
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