My 1983 300SD drivers side window goes up to about 3/4 of an inch then stops and makes the clunk-clunk noise. I then have to pull it up manually. To go down I have to push it back to the 3/4 point where it will take it down but clunk-clunks at the bottom. Took door panel off, both sliding jaws are ok, sliding and not broken.
Could this be the teeth on the window regulator or power motor?

Thanks

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1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's)
1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD)
2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K
1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K
1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD)
1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE)

609 Certification

It's likely the last couple teeth on the reg. are worn off.It's not
a real tuff job to replace the reg.(1-1.5hrs.)should do it.!:

Thanks Paul! Is there a way to see or feel these teeth without removing the window regulator just to make sure that is what it is? Is there teeth on the motor also? These teeth are made of metal!

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1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's)
1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD)
2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K
1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K
1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD)
1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE)

609 Certification

Found out what it was!!!! The teeth on the aluminuim colored wheel are gone (missing) in about a 3 inch section, this is causing the clunk and slippage. Is this the teeth on the regulator? There are 2 metal teeth wheels, which one has them the motor or the regulator, or do I need both?

James

__________________
1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's)
1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD)
2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K
1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K
1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD)
1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE)

609 Certification

I bet this is my 123 problem too. window works fine, but doesn't go to the top, clunk clunk at the end. now to learn to replace the regulator! I am in the middle of replacing the sliding jaw on my 126. Thinking about subscribing to pindelski.com for the photo articles, but I'm cheap... probably try it on my own first.

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83 300SD
81 300D
79 300SD
All Running on Biodiesel!

I've done it on a 123, it's not that hard. The whole thing is pretty obvious when you look at it. One or two bolts hold the regulator to the window, three bolts hold the regulator to the door. Remove the regulator and motor as a unit, then remove the motor from the regulator. The whole process should take an hour.

If your teeth are gone on the big regulator gear sector, I actually managed to weld it up and file new teeth...see last post in this thread Power window 'clunks' at end of travel
I'm not too cheap to buy a used regulator, but for all the hassle of putting the old one back until the replacement arrives, then repeating the exercise all over, it was easier to fix it (of course, having a mig helps). If the gear on the motor is gone, you're probably looking at a replacement motor.

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

Nice job (I checked your other thread). I know on my W124 I found that splitting the motor from the regulator allowed me to clean the rust, moisture, etc. out and then repack with moly. I simply stuffed the moly in, mated the motor back to the regulator drive, used jumper leads on the battery and kept reversing the polarity to let it travel both directions. This worked the lube into the drive unit. Two of four windows are done and work very smoothly. I do need to remove the left front door panel and do a minor adjustment for proper tracking of the window as it tilt slightly inward at toward the peak of its travel. I also learned not to use too much Waxilit on the fiber seal. Streaked the glass for weeks. Works great on the upper portion in the cold weather as the top of the glass does not try to bind/freeze. Are we having fun???

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

I've done this job on the driver-side window/door of my '91 420SEL (W126), and it is not too bad. But I think the 1-1.5 hour estimate is low, if it is the first time, if for no other reason than taking the door panel off (and getting it back on right) takes a little playing around.

In seeing lots of forum postings about similar problems, I think it is always the teeth on the regulator, and not the teeth on the motor, which are probably made of harder material.

I think it was this forum where I did a search and found a nice posting from someone with pictures on removing the door panel, separating out the regulator and motor, etc.

I got my replacement regulator from an online parts place - for my car there was a need to be a little careful in ordering, since a couple of different makes of regulator and motor were used, and you had to get the right regulator to match up with the motor. Just something to check.

The problem with this is that once you take everything apart to see exactly what you need, you are more or less stuck with an immobile car until the replacement part shows up (since you probably don't feel like doing the whole job twice). Or you can make as assumption that you need the regulator, order prior to taking everything apart, and just hope that you don't end up having to return anything.

My only regret after fixing mine was that I lived with the clunking sound (in my case the window went up all of the way, and it just made the clunking sound after the window was at the top of its travel) for almost a year before getting around to fixing it.

Hello Would you please detail how to remove door panel,or tell me
where I could find out! Thanks John