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#31
10-17-2007, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
My car is a 5/82 Euro Ok...After a long study of the WUR traced most of it The top vac hose goes to a vent off of a rubber hose that connects the air idle control valve into the intake. Mine is not the electric ICV Its a bosch upright air idle control valve Front of reg vac tubing is red but can't trace it Back of WUR is a vac hose that goes into the top of a T vac hose which connects to one vent of a Thermo vac valve switch the other t arm goes to the back of the intake next to the fuel distrib area. Sharing that TVV is another vac hose that connects to the 4 way vac hose in the front. That 4 arm hose also goes to a air inject valve before going into the intake Also connects to distibutor valve & a red line I can't trace... It has bee suspected somewhere in this line is the EGR??? Anyway car runs flawlessly Starts like a dream when stome cold I have started it 2 times ok when warm if I restart with 5 minutes. Still having a bad warm/hot sa=tart after the car is driven You can leave the car and hour or 2 hours & when you try to restart its crank city Yesterday one restart took 2 long cranks The other was lots of cranking many times until finally I sat a while Then it started a died a time or two before it finally got running... The car did sit for 4 years & I have only driven it say 125 miles so far but this is the only problem I have with it... Will asks mechanic tomoorow Its going in for plugs & to replace the broken Tvv which is bypassed Still car runs fine even better but that warm/hot start is still the same or maybe even worse since the tvv broke but I don't think thats the cause of it. Closet I have come to understanding this is after the car has been run when its shut there is a slight residual fuel leakage it pools & creates a sort of flooded situation... Now thats fuel injectors old as they are & $$$$ so trying to see what I can do to minimize this & live with it... Hoping maybe its even something else.
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~Shadow~  83 500 SEC Euro 198K 
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#32
10-28-2007, 11:29 PM
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Accumulator helped warm start
On advise of mechanic got a new fuel accumulator.
Was a $100 part so it was worth a shot Does help the warm/hot starts but they still on not instantaneous like a cold start & do need a lil gas Least there is much less cranking involved so its alot better. Thing is I also had new plugs & wires & thermo vac switch installed at same time so maybe those could have made for better warm/hot starts too. Anywayits starting much better on hot/warm starts so thats a good thing...  Found this site http://www.k-jet.org/articles_dbkjet.html#34 Difficulty starting engine only when warm 1) Cold start injector stuck open or leaking: basically, this test is the same as the test above for the cold start injector, but you must have the engine warm before you test it. If the cold start injector fires when the engine is at normal operating temperature, then you've got a problem. You can do the test for 12 volts across the injector plug to see if it's the injector or the thermal time switch causing the problem. 2) Control pressure too high or too low: If you are blasting unburnt fuel (black smoke) out of your tail pipe, then your control pressure regulator is giving too low of a control pressure when the engine is warm and needs to be cleaned or replaced as described above. If the control pressure is too high (less likely) then the fuel mixture will be too lean (too much air, not enough fuel). 3) Regular fuel injectors leaking: Again, this would probably be signified by unburnt fuel coming out of your tailpipe. If the injectors leak, then a bunch of gas flows into the combustion chamber when the car is sitting. After the car has been warmed up and has been running, turn off the car and pull out your fuel injectors and see if any are leaking. Be careful, the engine is hot of course. If they leak more than one drop every 15 seconds, they should be replaced. If all of the injectors are leaking by about the same amount, the rest pressure is probably too high, so see below. 4) Wrong rest pressure: The rest pressure is the pressure that the fuel system stays at when the car is not running. If it is too high (pretty unlikely), fuel will be leaking out of all four injectors. If it is too low, the car will have a hard time starting because there is not enough pressure at the injectors, but may eventually start. The rest pressure can be adjusted by adjusting the line pressure regulator, which is a component of the fuel distributor. As I said before, I am not going to cover the line pressure regulator in detail because you need a fuel pressure gauge to really do it right.
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~Shadow~ 83 500 SEC Euro 198K Last edited by CamelotShadow; 10-30-2007 at 04:14 AM.
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