I have a 1999 E320 with 101K miles on it that I recently purchased from an auction. I do not know the vehicle history, but the sticker from the last oil change said Kendal synthetic blend. That is all I know.

The MB dealer says they use only Mobil 1 full synthetic 0-40 oil for all their oil changes, even my car. They reiterated to never use regular oil, only synthetic.

I have read here that switching to Mobile 1 can cause leaks and excessive oil consumption because of the additives, if Mobile 1 has not been used every time. It seems mine has used other brands and currently does not leak or burn oil.

I have read here that MB recommends extracting the old oil through the dip stick, but the dealer told me they always drain oil through the oil pan plug. Who is correct?

Now I'm confused about oil brand, viscosity, and oil removal. Please enlighten me.

I'm going to wade into an oil thread, and do my best to answer your questions.

All MB's from the 1998 model year up to present must use synthetic oil. For the 1998 to 2002 (or possibly 2003) model years the synthetic oil you use must meet the MB 229.3 specification. You can read the label on the back of the bottle and check for that information, it will be fairly prominent. Newer MBs must meet the 229.5 specification, but that isn't an issue for your 1999. Yes, MB uses Mobil 1 and makes the same recommendation. But you can use any brand of synthetic that meets the 229.3. The viscosity you choose is completely dependent upon climactic conditions and your driving style. Most people will use a 0w40 or a 5w40.

As far as synthetics causing leakage on older motors is concerned, there are definitely two schools of thought on this. First of all, it isn't just Mobil 1 that has this reputation, it is all synthetics. It isn't necessarily true. I think it is largely dependent upon the condition of your engine inside. When synthetics first came out they did apparently have a more aggressive detergent additive. If your engine has any sort of sludge or other crap in it that is preventing seals from leaking, the removal of that crap would result in oil leaks. I don't know that synthetics feature the same degree of aggressive detergents now.

I switched my C280 to Valvoline High Mileage synthetic about 6 months ago and have not had any more oil consumption or leakage than I had before. This was after close to 100,000 miles on dino oil.

The bottom line for your car is that MB recommends use of synthetic oil. I'd stick with the recommendation, especially if you plan to follow the Flexible Service System times.

edit: as far as getting the oil out, it doesn't make any difference. Drain it out or use a vacuum extractor. As long as it all comes out, it doesn't matter how. I know there are difference of opinion on this matter here. The only thing I will say is that if you drain the oil out make sure you change the copper washer on the drain plug each time. You will need to buy this separately from the oil filter.

__________________
Jonathan

2011 Mazda2
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1994 C280 (retired)

See http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OilFilter2 As far as type or brand of oil see http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html You can drain it or pump it out, your choice, I prefer to drain using one of these http://www.fumotovalve.com/ There should not be a problem switching to Mobil1. My 2 cents.

Use Mobil 1 0-40w and a MB brand oil filter. Remove the oil the way you choose. I'm a drainer, because I like to remove the bottom cover and give the engine a good visual inspection to look for any leaks or problems, but a lot of guys like to use the extracting method. I'm surprised that the MB dealer told you they drain the oil, because I thought they were all using pumps. If you do drain, make sure to purchase the copper washer along with your MB filter. It's your call.

Enjoy your car,

Dave

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Thanks everyone.

You would think doing a simple oil change was part of a secret society. What I thought was a simple oil change...still is a simple oil change.

I appreciate the advice and recommendations. Very comprehensive information.

Mike

I extract..... just did the CE this weekend.. I have to get the engine up to operating temp...then the oil just flows...

loosen the oil filter...and place some newspaper underneath the filter area to catch some drips.

i use 20w-50...but i am in hot weather territory...and really could use valve stem seals... may i will get to that this winter... then i would probably drop to 15w-50 synthetic.

__________________
1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

Just athought about my experience, my w210 had a mild leak at the head gasket. Wwhen reviewing the oil change rocords it had been lubed with 20-w50 mobil syn from the beginning of its life and had developed a head gasket oil leak at about 80 K miles. The head gasket was changed and then fresh oil. Within20 K miles the car had a very slight seapage from the head gasket the owner sold the car for fear of another head problem. I bought it and noticed the leak, more than seapage but less than cause for replacement. No real mechanical issues, the car acheives MFG gas mileage and runs great.

I put castrol 5w40 Euro spec oil in the car and to my suprise the oil leak stopped. I must note that at 6000 miles the car did not consume any oil using 20w50 according to the dip stick. It did leave a spot on the garage floor after a long drive.

I surmise that if you use the correct weight and amount of oil these oil leak issues would not exist and are of our own desire to spend more.

My history with syn oils and leaking (Ive built many gas engines) is and has been for the last 15 years is, that if the engine is sound and the seals are good you will see some wet film at many gasket surfaces, it indicates good lubrcation through-out the engine especially on older mills where sludge may have slowed lubricity.

Bottom line, any engine with tight machine tolorences needs a good syn lube and may seep at gaskets. Stick to quality products and rely on the engineers that built it to know how to maintain it; more time and effort goes into these car's design than anyone can imagine.

I live in Charlotte, NC which has hot summers (94-100 degress) and very mild winters w/ no snow, maybe flurry's (30-35).

What is the correct viscosity for these conditions? MB uses 0-40 here. Is this the most advantages viscosity? I have 101k miles on my 99 E320.

I've been using Mobil 1 5W50 and formerly 15W50 on my W124 / m103 without problems.

__________________
ARVY

1999 E430
1999 C230 Kompressor
1992 300E (write-off)
1984 190D 2.2 (sold)

I'm in San Francisco where temperature always seems to be in the 60's. I'm migrating to Mobile 1 Synthetic, and attempting to determine best viscosity. Here's viscosity options that I've learned of so far:

1) MB sheet 229.3 approved oils
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-40
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-50


2) Mobil 1 Website
http://www.mobil1.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/which_oil/WhichOilOption2.aspx

Mobil 1 0W-30 (see screen shot - image attached)


3) Local Mercedes Dealer Parts Manager uses:

Mobil 1 5W-50 in his 1987 300E


Additional thoughts on viscosity are appreciated.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Steven
1989 260E (276K miles)
1995 E320 (50K miles)

You'll never get all of the oil out of the engine either through the dipstick tube or through the drain plug, but you'll get enough out either way.

It takes longer to drain through the dipstick tube if you don't have a very powerful pump. My Top-Sider takes a good 45 minutes to do the job. Mostly that's just waiting for the suction to do the job, but I do have to pump it a few times during the wait. But since you don't have to get under the car for the filter, the extraction method works great.

It seems that I can get more oil out through the dipstick tube, judging by how long it takes the oil to look black on the dipstick after the change. Extracting gives me several hundred miles of honey-colored oil. Draining out the bottom gives me several blocks, if that.

The reason M-B tells you to use only synthetic oil in the car is because they ran into trouble with the FSS when they said it would work with either syn or conventional oils and then engines started getting sludged up because the FSS was not correcting properly and was letting the engines go too far between changes on conventional oils. For that reason M-B extended the warranties on the early FSS equipped cars and mandated that they all use fully synthetic oils.

I don't think you would be at great risk going to 0W40 now and that's what I would do. As a precaution you might think about doing a second change after 500 or so miles, or at least change the filter again, just in case, since you don't know the history of the car and there might just be some sludge loosened up by the syn oil...but that's really just being extra cautious.

__________________
Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz