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#1
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OK,,, I give up
Taking the 320 in to my indy tomorrow to try to get the idle surge figured out. Through the help of the forum, I have tried everything imaginable, but it is actually getting worse, so it's time to bite the bullet. Will let you know what comes of this diagnosis.
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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K 07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K 02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K 05 F150 Silver 44K |
#2
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Okay, Pete. Good luck! Just don't get upset . . .
I'm sorry. I know I shouldn't have said that. I just couldn't help myself.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century ![]() OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#3
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Quote:
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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K 07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K 02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K 05 F150 Silver 44K |
#4
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Quote:
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#5
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If it is a bad hose, I'm going to have it gold plated and hang it on my wall.
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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K 07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K 02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K 05 F150 Silver 44K |
#6
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#7
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Quote:
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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K 07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K 02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K 05 F150 Silver 44K Last edited by Pete Geither; 07-17-2007 at 10:55 AM. |
#8
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Quote:
The test is to put a BB in the vac line between the egr element port and the SOV and run the car for a few days. No surge = you have narrowed down the cause. I also do a manual egr test and part of that test is to make sure the egr SNAPS shut. As the problem came with EGR change, it also possible that you have a simple vac leak anywhere in between the egr and the intake at the engine ..this could be as simple as the mount bolts/gasket at the intake side or a loose fitting of the cross tube from the valve.. Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 07-17-2007 at 02:47 PM. |
#9
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I remember one of Johnhef's friends trying to diagnose a problem like this. He was a very seasoned MB Master Technician and an excellent diagnostician. He said problems like this were a real bear to diagnose correctly.
Having said that, I guess anybody would have a tough time doing it. This is probably why mechanics are often accused of "throwing parts" at problems. That doesn't make it any easier when you're the one BUYING the parts, though.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century ![]() OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#10
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Update:
I'm standing at my workbench looking at this thing -- had been soaking with wd40 -- and about 12" away is a square 9v battery I had taken out of a smoke detector. I'm like, what the heck, let's see if it activates this valve. Sure enough -- click, click, click. Click -- air goes through valve no problem. Seems loose and opening/closing properly. Put it on the car...plug it in...nothing. Maybe it is working...but no pulsing/clicking anything.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles Last edited by brookspw; 08-08-2009 at 01:42 PM. Reason: update |
#11
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Any 12v DC source...hook one side to one terminal and every time you touch the other terminal to complete the circuit, the valve should open/close..
If you soak the vave in some cleaner and do the 12v intermittant hook up, that should exercize the valve ..and you will hear it and you will feel it pulsing with each sig input. That is what my post said to do. .but it also said to confirm the coil of the valve is good by OHM reading it ..I even gave you the OHM SPECIFICS...cuz if the coil winding is an OPEN circuit, you can clean the valve til the cows come home without it working...so , I included that as a precautionary FIRST step. Sounds specific to me. If it is not clear to you , then maybe just go buy a new one,.
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A Dalton |
#12
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Quote:
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#13
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Ohms are fine.
Left the car running. Car had been running smooth as silk. Went back out there and the idle is surging. Regen valve is clicking like a drum roll...so, that evidently is not the problem. Now, on, I guess to track down vacuum leak, or actuator or air flow meter. Seems like it runs very smooth until fully heated up then surges.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic 105k miles 1991 190E 2.6, Black 191,500 miles (sold to another forum member) 2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic 105k miles 1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible 43k miles |
#14
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<
You have only determined that the solinoid pintle is working..you have not determined if the flow is correct. Take the vac hose going to the canister off when the vavle is pulsing and put you finger on the port of the valve..does it have pulsing suction?? If yes, then unplug the connector..does the valve shut OFF ? If NO to either , it is full of crap and needs to be cleaned. That is why my early post said to check flow.
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A Dalton |
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