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#16
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Quote:
I think the Parrot of Doom instructions do not address the potential electrical failure of the actuator. In my car the electrical actuator acted like it was "tired" and would default to the open position on the driver's side. The instructions get the actuator off, so once it is off you can test it for continuity (Ohms) and possibly inductance. Not sure what the results should be, but you can start by comparing it to the side that seems to work all the time. I was not sure how to determine if the control system was at fault or the actuator was at fault. In the end the dealer replaced the duovalve and since then the system works fine. Also, that hissing noise is pretty normal as far as I know. In the evaporator the liquid freon is given the opportunity to boil off as it comes out of the valve and sprays onto the heat exchange surfaces of the air cooling unit. This causes the hissing noise you hear as the heat exchange surface is in direct contact with the air venting into the car, and the surface is a very thin membrane to be more efficient. Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#17
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A/C temp
I just had that same problem with the vent temps. It turned out to be a leaking evaporator. It was expensive to replace but seems to be holding temp now. You need to fill system with die to ck for leaks and also use a snooper in the vents to ck for r134 loss...
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#18
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after reading all through this thread it is my opinion that you have two probs.[1] bad heater valve [2] low freon charge[hissing noise and low side pressure readings big clues] replace valve and add freon [not too much] easy check is low pressure at 35-40psi [with in car temp at about 75-80f] and high side at about 250psi slowly going up and bringing on high fan which swings it back to 225psi.next hold engine rpm's at 1500-2000 and make sure high side does'nt climb above 325psi.
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David S Poole European Performance Dallas, TX 4696880422 "Fortune favors the prepared mind" 1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL 1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator) 2000 Mercedes Benz C280 http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg |
#19
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Duke,
What was your resolution and fix on this topic? Your comrades would like some feedback?
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1996 E300D 1996 E320 Wagon 4MATIC 2003 Jetta TDI- GLS, 5-spd 1997 Passat TDI 2002 F350 Crew cab 4x4 Powerstroke Jacobsen HR 15' cut ZTR w/ 80 HP Perkins diesel Hustler 6' front deck with 28HP Kubota diesel |
#20
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I forget what I've posted here already... The short answer is that I took apart and inspected the duovalve, and all seemed to be well. I picked up a can of refrigerant and a fill hose and added about six ounces of freon (134a), about two ounces at a time over a long period.
I now have cool air out of all vents. It has been about six weeks since this problem cropped up, and at least a month since I added that refrigerant, and I have not had a loss of cooling capacity yet. I know freon doesn't just go away without a leak, but I have no idea about the prior owner. Since I recharged the system a bit, things are well. I'll be keeping a close eye on it during the hot Texas summer! Cheers, John
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'98 E300TD (W210) | Sold 6/09 with 205k and counting '04 VW Touareg V10TDI |
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