can i remove my power brake booster for racing? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

t walgamuth · #1 03-06-2007, 11:45 PM

i was reading about a car that he removed the power brake booster for racing purposes. anybody know if this would work on a 1984 123 280e euro?

this is for a car to be used exclusively on autocross tracks so please don't bother the lectures on safety.

it it is feasible i will just take it off and try it out and if it doesnt work back on it will go.

i seem to remember on older cars the bolt pattern was the same for the booster as the mc so you could just unbolt it and take it out.

tom w

Matt L · #2 03-06-2007, 11:51 PM

The bolt pattern is half the job. You also have to make the pushrod fit properly. That's the hard part, unless it happens to be the right length already (which I doubt). The easy part is making new lines to fit the new position of the cylinder outputs.

OldPokey · #3 03-07-2007, 12:36 AM

Disconnect the vacuum to the booster and see how drivable it is. I would think the booster would be an asset for racing as it improves your brakes. Some of the best cars were known not just for their acceleration and cornering capabilities, but for how good their brakes were.

psfred · #4 03-07-2007, 01:28 AM

You will have to use both feet on the pedal to stop the car, I would leave it in there. You can, I suppose, fit a modified (smaller bore) MC for racing, but otherwise you will have to priovide MUCH higher pedal pressure for equivalent braking.

Safety is much more important in racing that on the street -- you are going faster, working the car harder, and likely have much less effective manouvering room! Don't wait until you break your neck to think about it.

Peter

Ara T. · #5 03-07-2007, 02:51 AM

It weighs what, 7 pounds at the most? Your stopping distances will be longer no matter how strong your legs are.

Have you gutted the interior and trunk? You'd probably be better off doing that and getting some lighter rims and tires. My 14" bundt and 195/70 series tire weighed 25 pounds... decent but definitely room for improvement in the unsprung weight category.

Are you using the stock schoolbus steering wheel? Go for a 14" or a 15" aftermarket wheel like a Nardi (if you like wood). You will be amazed at how much more responsive it will feel with the smaller wheel, plus without all the vinyl/rubber material like on the OEM wheel you will feel a lot more through the wheel.

cool · #6 03-07-2007, 04:23 AM

I wonder why people have to play around with the brakes (as I recall my studies at MB germany, brakes are made to stop a vehicle at the least possible distance and less effort on the driver) WHY MESS AROUND WITH IT? Short of saying you can just drive the car over the cliff just to commit suicide. WOW were are you guys from?

Arthur Dalton · #7 03-07-2007, 06:33 AM

France

#8 03-07-2007, 08:19 AM

I FULLY expect that when removing the brake booster for racing purposes, they are using a master cylinder with a different size bore to make the brakes usable.

In the days of power brakes being an option, the non power brakes had a different size master cylinder.

dpetryk · #9 03-07-2007, 08:21 AM

Why do you want to remove it?

t walgamuth · #10 03-07-2007, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt L

The bolt pattern is half the job. You also have to make the pushrod fit properly. That's the hard part, unless it happens to be the right length already (which I doubt). The easy part is making new lines to fit the new position of the cylinder outputs.

are you saying the bolt pattern is the same?

thanks for responding with an answer to the question that i asked.

tom w

t walgamuth · #11 03-07-2007, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

I FULLY expect that when removing the brake booster for racing purposes, they are using a master cylinder with a different size bore to make the brakes usable.

In the days of power brakes being an option, the non power brakes had a different size master cylinder.

thanks, larry. i knew that.

tom w

t walgamuth · #12 03-07-2007, 08:33 AM

thanks to everybody for your kind thoughts and concerns. it is autocross so if the experiment doesn't work i am not likely to die.

finding a smaller diameter cyl may be a good option. but i am curious to find out how much more effort is required without it.

on my old caddies and pontiacs i routinely removed and discarded the power setups and found the brakes worked really well without them.

i fully expect a mercedes to have a better balance though between pedal effort and braking results.

i intend to fit a smaller diameter steering wheel if i find the hub is the right size. i have a very nice sport wheel from a saab of the eighties.

tom w

mbdoc · #13 03-07-2007, 09:01 AM

I auto crossed a 280E for 3 years in SCCA events... no real reason to disconnect or remove the booster..Use front brakes from a late W126 chassis with ceramic pads...you will have a GREAT feel that way.