On my '86 (the same 560SEL with the transmission problems ) the left lower ball joint is shot. I mean the car is creaking all of the time, every time you hit a minor imperfection in the road its CREEK . I'm pretty sure as to the fact its a lower ball joint, and what I am wondering is does it require a press to replace or can I get a replacement tools kit from autozone and remove it?
Thanks for your help,
Dave

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Currently Driving:
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1994 Lincoln Town Car
1994 Cadillac Deville
1985 Lincoln Town Car- Retired

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I have never seen what Autozone loans out. If you have a Harbor Freight near you the 3/1 Ball joint, U joint C Frame press kit is only $30. Are you positive the creek is ball joint and not control arm bushings.

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Yeah, I'm sure its the lower ball joint. Someone has drilled a small hole in it near the top and when you take WD-40 and one of those small straw type nozzles that comes with it and fill it up with WD, the sounds of creaking disappear. So by virtue of that, I am sure. Also when I had the wheels aligned they looked at the ball joint and agreed with me. I don't know of a harbor freight around here, but I'll check the website.
Thanks, Dave.

__________________
Currently Driving:
1986 Mercedes Benz 560SEL
1994 Lincoln Town Car
1994 Cadillac Deville
1985 Lincoln Town Car- Retired

The Official Car of a Realtor- Lincoln Town Car
The Official Car of the Successful Independent Insurance Agent- Mercedes Benz S Class

Well mine is now on the side of the road waiting for a tow. The control arm is scraping on the pavement. I asked for a wrecker as opposed to a flat bed. Will the spring fall out when he picks it up? When he backs it in to my driveway, how do I get it in to my warm garage without trashing my new driveway? I do have a harbor frieght near by. '84 190e. (Jenz Benz)

I replaced lower joints on my 126 a few years back. I could find no way to make any generic press work. I have the Harbor freight kits, and a hydraulic press, and I worked prettty hard to figure something out.
the problem is, the joint goes in at an angle, and a normal press just cannot access it. Therefore the only way is to use the special press made for this application. I can't remember cost, but it's close to $200 I think.
Someone here may rent the press, I think Performance Products rents it.
After trying many things, I took my arms to the local MB mechanic and he pressed them for about $50.

Maybe someone knows a "shadetree" way to get these beasts into a 126; I'd sure like to hear it!

DG

OK, Got the car into the garage, got 2 new ball joints, its up on stands, wheel is off. Can't even get the bolt off that holds the stem of the ball joint. Hit it several times with penetrating fluid and got the nut off but can't budge the bolt or spread the part open the holds the ball joint stem. Can't really hit the end of the bolt to knock it Through either! Any suggestions? I'm hoping the other side of the ball joint comes out easier than this.

You need to remove the spring pressure. The spring is pushing down on the ball joint and that bolt will not move until you remove the spring force. If you do manage to force the bolt out the spring will go flying and probably hurt you.

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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k

Job is done! Not easy though. The spring was not a factor because the ball joint had already broken so the ball and stem were on the wheel and the cup was still in the arm which was hanging.

Bolt just needed more umph and lots of pen. oil. Getting the remainder of the ball joint out of the arm was a joke. Tried the Harbor Freight 3 in 1 press tool. Wouldn't fit! The lip on the bottom of the ball joint is about the same diam. as the end part of the arm. (Nowhere to put a tube or socket to use with the press.) It had to be chiseled through and cut out with a saws-all! I was able the use the tool to press the new one in but I don't recommend this tool. I actually bent this massive tool (from China) and only used a socket and 18" breaker bar! I know, I know, You get what you pay for. $29.99

Will I do the other side? Sure, but this time the arm is coming out and going to the parts store and getting pressed in and out!

Live and Learn.

GradyService; I tried to send you a reply on ball joint replacement, but seems it got lost in cyber-land.
I did a 126 BJ replacement a few years back: worse then a tranny overhaul, but I got-r-done.

From my experience, you will absolutely need to take the steering knuckles off the car: getting the old BJ out, and pressing the new ones in are a tough job, even on the workbench. The knuckle bends around the BJ, and makes use of normal pullers and presses virtually impossible, and the old BJ is REALLY tight in there. You can try to do it on the car, the MB shops probably can with the proper tools. But if you fail, then proceed below.

1. To remove the knuckle
a. For safety , support the lower control arm, and raise it a tad to help support the spring. (With the wheel hanging the only thing holding the spring back is the shock absorber shaft). Look it over carefully, make sure the spring is contained/controlled.
b. Pull off the brakes, hub, bearings, ABS line, etc.
c. Unbolt the tie-rod arm (steering knuckle arm) 2 bolts. No need to pop off the tie rod joint.
d. Remove the nut and pop the upper BJ out of the upper control arm. You will need a small rigid 2-prong puller, like a tie-rod puller (don't mess up the grease boot).
E. The knuckle should be free now, except for the lower BJ. Swing the knuckle out, and get access to the lower BJ nut and shaft. Pop it out using a larger puller, or a pickle fork, or whatever. No worry about destroying the boot.

2. Now you can bring the knuckle to the bench and fight the BJ.
As I remember I hammered on it until I turned blue, I couldn't get it to fit on my hydraulic press. Whatever form of violence works; just get it out. (or see below).

3. Last, you have to press in the new joint - good luck.
I could find no press or tool that would fit, the damn knuckle arm gets in the way. The proper tool is 116 589 04 62 00, a screw-on press with one side cut away to clear the arm of the knuckle.

So, I took my knuckles and BJ to a MB shop that had the tool.
They pressed them for about $50 if I remember correctly. only a few minutes, but I was glad to pay.
On hindsight, I think I would have let them press out the old ones also.

4. The rest is just re-assembly. Torque values
upper BJ nut - 40 NM
lower " - 80
fixed brake caliper bolts (2) 115
floating " 90
tie rod arm bolts (2) 80

Good luck,
DG