Update: replaced with the new wires and something still wasn't right - still an occasional, intermittent misfire when cold (though nothing bad enough to stall the car anymore and definitely WAY better with the newer wires). I suspected the coil, so I purchased one locally but mentioned to the seller that I *may* return the coil if I end up not needing it. I tested resistance on the new coil, and it checked out, well within specs. I then checked my old coil and it too checked out well within specs. So I ruled the coil out.

I decided to pull the plugs. They will probably need replacing. #1 had some deposits on it. I couldn't tell if it was carbon or oil since it was very light. Could be the beginnings of valve stem seal wear. Either way, not enough to worry about for now. I regapped the plugs at .030 for now (I know they should be between .032 and .040) and reinstalled.

In plugging the wires back in, I made a startling discovery. Apparently on this new set of wires, the 2nd detent is VERY hard to click in. You have to grasp the resistor end with both hands and push with all your body weight to get it to snap into place. I realized none of the ends was snapped in properly, although when I first installed them it "felt" like they were all the way in. After snapping each one in all the way, the idle is now 99% misfire free. I believe the remaining 1% will be corrected by new plugs.

Fred, glad to hear you are sorting your issues out.

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Just thought I should point out the wires I removed were BREMI? I never heard of that brand. We'll see how long these Bosch last...

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I only recommend buying plug wires from somewhere that carries actual OEM stuff (McParts usually has crappy aftermarket stuff from the same manufacturer, NOT OEM).

There were definitive burn marks on the wires and adjacent surfaces on my TE when I got it. I was astonished that it ran at all when I looked!

New plugs (Platinum multi-electrode), wires, cap, and rotor (and $350) and it ran pretty good. A new fuel pump relay cured the worst of the idle shake (and new engine mounts!), and finally getting all the vac leaks fixed makes it run very nicely.

You should get a bottle of brake parts cleaner and spray each injector/seal assembly with the engine running -- if the idle smooths out, that seal is leaking and you should replace all of them, along with the holder 0-ring.

I would not do this with arcing wires.....

Also check the condition of the idle control valve hoses and the boot between air meter housing and throttle body. If the clamp at the base needs to be snugged up, replace the boot as it will also leak air at the idle control valve hose fitting.

Note that it is MUCH easier to replace the ICV to manifold hose with the fuel distributor air housing removed....

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

so you do not have to pull any plugs just raise the hood and crank the car? what color if any should you see?

Blue high voltage electrical discharge "walking" down the wires.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!