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  #16  
Old 08-20-2006, 01:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SOUTH JERSEY
Posts: 196
Try Bars Leak

YOU HAVE NOTHING TO LOOSE BUY TRYING A 3 DOLLAR BOTTLE OF BARS LEAK.. NOT THE ONE WHERE YOU HAVE TO DRAIN THE RADIATOR!

I had the same problem in my 1992 235k orig radiator turns out it was leaking from the temp sensor.. well not any more

pour the brown goo in the expansion tank.. fill bottle with water and shake it for a min and add it to radiator tank.. Drive the car for about an hour and then let her rest..

worst thing is you wasted 3 bux...
my 1998 i added it it to it before any leaks !!

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1994 S-350 6cyl Turbo Diesel 158k

1998 300d 6 cyl Turbo Diesel 143K

1993 2.5 124 Turbo-Diesel 236

1990 2.5 124 Turbo-Diesel 228k

1983 SL-500 EURO W/HEATED SEATS 40K

SOLD 1977 Jaguar XJ6 Coupe Antique Roadster 85K

SOLD 1993 2.6 6 cyl 190 E 150k

SOLD 1992 2.5 124 Turbo-Diesel 204k

RIP 1992 124 300 TD 265K OIL PUMP QUIT @ 85MPH
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2006, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 84
Phalcon51 thanks for all the info and the link to the insrtructions on how to remove the water pump.. I just removed the water pump at around 2 hours. I could not remove the belt by using the tentioner 13mm bolt so I had to pry it off (I know not the best thing). Everything else came out like butter. I removed the 13mm bolt and noticed that it came off the threaded shaft, I guess I need to purchase a new one. When I removed the water pump I noticed that the o-ring where the pump meets the block was as flat as a pancake in one spot near the bottom of the pump. I guess that is where it was leaking.

I think that the water pump is still in good shap and I only need the o-ring, but I am going to change the water pump anyhow (I do not want to go through this again).

Now I hope that putting it all back together will be just as quick and with no problems. I am going to buy the new pump on Monday and I am also going to purchase a new upper and lower rad hose and the 2" bypass hose.

The only problem I have now is getting the fan clutch to stay still so I can remove it to put the belt on (I still have the old belt wedged in there and need to remove it).

I will keep you guys posted.

Thanks Fab
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  #18  
Old 08-24-2006, 07:24 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 84
Today I finished installing the water pump. I put a brand new tensioner in and I cannot set the tension on the belt. I put the belt on and I thought I set the tension but after tightening the 19mm bolt I can still pull the belt off by hand and when I do so the tensioner pully moves up.

Please help

Fab
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  #19  
Old 08-25-2006, 01:38 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Monrovia, CA
Posts: 496
Make sure you have the belt routed correctly. Do you have the proper diagram to work from? (see the 2nd post in this thread).

What procedure did you follow to tension the belt?

Make sure that the pivot point where the adj. rod connects to the collar is at the 9:00 position (or to the left) when viewed from the front of the engine (see the rear view photo below). When mounted in this position the adj. rod nut, when turned CW as viewed from the top (i.e. the "normal" tightening direction) will push the adj. rod downward turning the tensioner outer housing, and consequently the tensioner pulley, CCW, away from the water pump pulley. If the opposite is happening, check to make sure that the collar on the adj. nut is under the adj. bracket, not on top of it.

Here's a picture showing the collared part of the adj. nut (coated with silver anti-seize) under the bracket:

Those are the only things I can think of offhand that might cause your problem.
Attached Thumbnails
Rad leak 1989 300E-tensioner-adjuster-95.jpg   Rad leak 1989 300E-tensioner-rear-view-95.jpg  

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