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#1
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202 lower ball joint replacement ?
If anyone has replaced an outer lower ball joint on a W202, I know a ball joint separator will break the verticle connection between lower control arm and ball joint, but how about the connection between ball joint and steering knuckle?
I didn't want to have to remove the steering knuckle from the car. If anyone had done this I'd like to hear how yiu did it. |
#2
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As the connection between the ball joint and the knuckle is usually very tight and there is no way a separator can be used ,it is easier to remove the knuckle from the car and drive the ball joint out while holding the knuckle in a vice. Just means you have to release three tapers instead of two ,but makes the job easier.
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#3
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Shandy,
Everything is falling into place now, I understand now, exactly how to do the repair. Thanks, Scott Speed is a punk! |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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the dealers don't sell a separate UPPER ball joint for the W202 front suspension, so If I remove my steering knuckle from the car how does one reattach the steering knuckle to the upper outer joint without buying a new upper control arm?
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#6
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i replaced the passenger side lower ball joint and tie rod end on my 1998 C230 today.
Some things to help other's do the job quicker. I recommend using new bolts for tie rod ( 1 lock nut and 1 ball joint bolt that connects to knuckle) and for lower ball joint ( two nuts on each side for the lower and one on each side for the upper) nuts. Also for the brakes new caliper bolts, brake slide through bracket (16mm I think) bolts, even new torx bolts that hold ABS mounting plastic bracket to steering knuckle if you can find then) For tools you need combination wrenches that go all the way up to 22mm's. I used a Baum ball joint separator sku KK1290 approx $136. I cannot imagine doing tthe job without it. And like the Haynes manual suggest, to get the lower ball joint out of the removed steering knuckle a strong table mounted large vice and a ten pound hammer with a thin steal awl like tool to knock tapper through knuckle.during the last few cm's. Also start off by loosening brake caliper slide bolts and caliper mounting bolts plus disconnect the ABS wiring from the back of the fender (need a small screw driver to lift up thin metal clip) and snap by hand the wirng out of the two brackets then use the torx to unscrew ABS wiring on knuckle. Remove brakes and ideally use small bungee cords to tie brake caliper to front suspension spring. Tie rod outer mounting bolt is easy to loosen, but to get outer tie rod lock nut off you'll need two combination wrenches (when I do other side tomorrow I'll note the wrench sizes) and some effort to lossen the lock nut. Breaking all the ball joints was simple with the Baum tool, reassembly was easy but the ball joint to steering knuckle attachment was trick to get attached. This is a great time to renew pads and rotors if you've got anything more than minor brake wear. I'll write up more tomorow, particularly about lifting the front of the car securely, this isn't a lift one side of the car with a two ton floor jack and start working kind of job. And if you raise car by placing a jack stand under the lower front control arm you may loose the ability to position steering knuckle to upper control arm. |
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