Just emission related.

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Thanks. I will try that and report back.

It is really starting to agitate me now, because something new happened on my FOURTH trip out in it yesterday. Yesterday (Wednesday) it stalled out even when I was already STOPPED @ a traffic light. I had been setting for about 45 seconds and it cut off as quickly and smoothly, as if you had simply turned off the switch just as the light turned green. It instantly restarted and I placed it back in drive. This was the first time it had stalled while I was already stopped. Whats worse, after I got it started again, it stalled out again. I coasted to the side and let the traffic turn left, which was the way I was originally headed. I started it again and it kept going that time and I made it all the way home- about a 10 minute drive. Its getting to where I am dreading when I have to make more than one trip out in this car. I have actually started driving another one of my cars. I know I need to repair this, but there are other things this car needs as well.

Good luck!

Well, I forgot to try that, bit I will today. It is getting worse. It stalled on the SECOND trip out today. Seems like the hotter it is outside, the more it stalls.

Also, today my temperature went up to 100*C and it was only 81*F outside. When I got back on the highway, it (the car) declined back down to 80*C. Also, when it was at 100*C, the valves were rattling something crazy on acceleration. Coolant is full. I need to check that fan.

Update:
It failed the emissions miserably 6% CO.
I turned the mixture adjustment screw back to it's original position and the car started stalling again, then I turned the mixture screw 1/24 of a turn and it still stalled, turned it another 1/12 of a turn and it stalled again, finally on the third turn it stopped stalling. So I went from 12 o'clock to about 1:30 and it drove okay.
However, when I initially start the car it smokes black from the tail pipe for a little bit (5 min) and then after a drive it goes away, still smells sort of rich though.....
I did turn the timing down to about 6 or 7 deg.
The other thing is the take off power, everyone who drives it says for a v8 it should be quicker off the line, but these people have never ever driven a mercedes, how do I know if it's functioning correctly?

SHould I just leave it alone???

Today I was driving it intown for a few hours and everything was find (it was about 85) until I turned on the a/c, then my tempreture gauge started moving up to 110c, so I turned the a/c off and the temp started going down.... Also, the stalling came back after I turned the a/c on.

Later, I found that the auxlilary fan (in front of the radiator) does not come on at all, please help me troubleshoot that or let me know if I need to open another thread.?

sigh......... sob......

I am starting to get really annoyed with this car.......
It still stalls with AC on.
The emission test failed with 6%HC, and it smokes black from the rear.
So while it's driveable and the stalling is gone during normal driving it's still not working right.
It's not adjusted correctly, so I guess I need help all over again to get this car to spec. Here is what I know:
1. If I lean the car out (to where it's supposed to be) it doesn't have any power and stalls.
2. The timing is set to 6BTDC and the retard portion of the distributor is plugged.
3. We are assuming that the cam timing is good.
4. The car has decent power when it cool (however still hesistates when you floor the gas pedal from a stop), when it gets to 90C I almost loose 30% of the power.
5. Vaccuum lines are routed correctly and there appears to be no vacuum leaks.

HELP

anyone?

You're ASSUMING the cam timing is right on a 1981 380SL? The one with a notoriously flimsy single-row timing chain? I'd check that FIRST. If the timing chain is still original or has not been updated to the dual row chain, your cam timing is probably way too late. You're also risking snapping the chain and doing massige engine damage.

Are you SURE all your vac lines are routed correctly and there are no leaks? And the timing is set dead on factory spec?

The 380's in the US were not very quick due to emissions controls. Lower compression and lamer cams than euro 380's is one reason MB upped their displacement to 420 later on. You're running way too rich too, and if you set the mixture properly you will probably notice more power. Also, when you turn the AC on, should the timing advance on this model?

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This had the dual timing chain update (or I am guessing a new engine in 98), so that's why I assuming that was good. The mech pulled out the rocker covers before I bought it to check for that.

Vacuum lines are up to spec, except for I am bypassing the retard module on the distributor.

If I lean the mixture out to where "it will pass emissions" I have almost no power and it stalls.

Sorry to hear you are still having stalling woes. I tried that little test you suggested "holding the idle @ 2000 rpms, then releasing the accelerator. It did not stall. It idled down to 1100 rpms. Sometimes it idles at 700 rpms. Depends upon engine temperatures.

It did not stall when driving today, but when I left the auto parts store (getting parts for my other car), it stalled when I put it in drive, but it started right back and did not stall the 2nd try. Away I went. My car runs fine otherwise.

I am thinking of just taking my car to one of the local MB shops and let them check it. I am at a crossroads.

1985 Mercedes 380SE (265K)
1989 Pontiac Safari wagon (165K)
1973 Pontiac Grand Ville (89K)
1969 Chevrolet Caprice (119K)

560sl,
sounds like you have a different problem.

On my problem, the mechanic seems to think that it's either the idle control valve or the module for the idle control valve. Does someone have detailed test procedures for this?

As far as loosing power when it's hot he thinks it's fuel pressure problem??

What's this LAMBDA deal in this car, I've never heard of the word let alone in car. Did some research, but it seems like it provides a perfect balance of mixture??

Seems as though. Today, I drove the car once around 1pm. It did not stall at all when actually driving. However, I stopped at one of the local post offices for a newspaper. I pulled in long-ways, so when I pulled out, all I would have to do is place in drive and I had reduced the chance of stalling by 50%. I did not think it would stall out anyway, since it was my first trip out and it was unseasonably cool (in the mid 60s). However, when I placed it in "D", it stalled out. I started it back, then placed it in "D" once again and no more stalling.

Give your mechanic a pat in the back.....for screwing up your vacuum connections. People complain of burning all 107's to the ground because they can't get them to work...well the majority of it is HUMAN error when it comes to vacuum line routing/maintenance!

I couldn't help but notice your distributor advance vacuum line is hooked up at the wrong place. It is hooked up to the thermoswitch! A no no.

There are two vacuum holes/posts/inlets whatever you may call it on the manifold (at least on my 500SL). One is to the left of the fuel distributor and another is on the lower right side, near the temperature switch.

On the first manifold inlet (on the left side next to fuel distributor), I have it attached to a thermoswitch which in turn then connects to the vent valve for the charcoal canister for fuel tank venting.

I have a X and Y vacuum connector connected together sharing a green/white valve in the middle. The Y connector connects to the lower right manifold inlet, the other end leads to a tube going to the distributor advance, and the third connects to the white/green check valve on the white side. The 'X" is called a 4 point distributor which first starts with connecting the front of idle control valve to a 2nd thermoswitch, then out from thermoswitch into warm up regulator chamber (upper), tube for 4 point distributor coming through from inner valley from throttle body vacuum switch.

Because of the check valve in place between the X and Y ends, when under acceleration, the vacuum created by the upper manifold inlet sucks air through the Y connection which in turn gets routed to the advance unit on the distributor.

Looks from the pics you'll need to redo the connections. Someone must have messed them up real good....

Talk about complications. First thing first. If memory serves me correct, the timing is 5BTDC [B]without[B] vacuum line connected. Have you cleaned the air plate? A very dirty air plate will make a CIS system die coming down from an idle.

I'm working through one (380SL) that won't go when the gas is mashed. Sometimes it runs fine and other times it just won't go. I can remove the air cleaner hsg and press down on the air flow plate - press and release before it dies (for lack of a better term) and then give it gas and it goes like it is supposed to. The air flow plate seems very hard to move. Is there a way to clean it up? Car starts and idles out great but stumbles whenever you give it gas. It does not seem to make any difference whether it is cold or hot. Yesterday when I drove it around the block it drove fine with no stumbling issues whatsoever. Not so today. I will not come off of idle without sounding like it is dying out and the economy gauge goes to the red. Any thoughts/ideas?

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gvb,
how do I clean the ics plate?
second thing is it appears the that my idle valve is good, however the control unit might not be because when the I check the voltage when the plug on the idle control valve is connected I get between 2 and 3 volts. In addition when I test the tempreture sensor and bridge the two wires together the rpm doesne't go up. I did lean out my mixture to proper level and now the car dosen't hesitate on take off.
My mechanic said there was no way to test the idle control unit and was wondering if anybody with a 380sl could test mine by plugging it into their car? Or if anyone has a good one that they can send me before I waste 300 bucks if that's not the problem.
I redid my vacuum since the picture and now the only thing I've got unplugged is the retard portion of the distributor since the diaphram leaks anyway.

Thanks,

Dmitri