Try unpluging the O2 sensor and see how far you can drive it.

It sounds like it is not having 'the real problem' until it has warmed up.

If it stalls again, try unplugging the EHA to see if the computer is 'fouling things up.'

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

Not sure about the idle control unit but the Ignition control module will definitely cause engine to quit and bog down and stutter if it is going south.

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95 E420 ( 76K) SOLD
85 380SE(125k)
95 SL500(72k)

Did the dealer drain the gas tank and clean or replace the filter screen at the bottom of the gas tank? These will get "coked-up" with fuel deposits if the fuel sits for a long time and cause all kinds of problems. Also, I have found that the fuel mixture (duty cycle) may need to be reset several times to get it right due to varying mixtures of old gas and fresh gas and the removal of varnish/gas deposits over time. When the car stalls does it emit black smoke from the exhaust or smell heavily of unburnt fuel? If so, you might want to try tweaking the 3mm adjustment screw 1/8 of a turn CCW to lean the mixture. If this improves matters, the mixture is too rich. If it is worse, try 1/4 of a turn CW (which results in a 1/8 turn rich from your original starting position) to see if matters improve. Once you find you are going in the correct direction, adjust in 1/16 turn increments to obtain a decent idle. Once you get to where the engine will run decently you can then check other posts to adjust the duty cycle properly. Mark

NOT REPORTED to me so I must say no! they did brag about how much was done but I replaced the fuel filter so I am shure they did not clean the tank or the screen,how hard a job is this to do?

I cant believe that people are telling you to do this to your car, unplug this unplug that. WTF!!! I know now how some of the cars come into my shop all Fu.. I wont continue that word. Look, buddy, you need to go find an independent reputable shop that knows what they are doing with a Mercedes. FYI, if you are so into fixing the car yourself, change the reference sensor.

OK I know that this unit has position sensors crank shaft cam shaft, throttle and so on help me out here?

Well just a short update,the 420 is at the point that you can start it and it runs all that we have left is to replace some of the idle air lines and reset the on/off,will keep you all posted,just-n-time.

Yes...especially if the vacuum hoses leading to it and away from it are hard and brittle and cracked...

__________________
Current Benzes

1989 300TE "Alice"
1990 300CE "Sam Spade"
1991 300CE "Beowulf" RIP (06.1991 - 10.10.2007)
1998 E320 "Orson"
2002 C320 Wagon "Molly Fox"

Res non semper sunt quae esse videntur

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Not in this weather!

your problem is the pickup on the flywheel that runs to the ignition unit david poole e. p. dallas tx. 2149567007

your problem is the flywheel pickup going to the ignition unit in left fenderwell.these parts have been considered almost bulletproof until now.they are going out because of years not use.the failure always seems to be temp related and they are nice enough to give you some warning so that you dont get completely stranded. david poole european performance dallas tx 2149567007.

your problem is the flywheel pickup going to the ignition unit in left fenderwell.these parts have been considered almost bulletproof until now.they are going out because of years not use.the failure always seems to be temp related and they are nice enough to give you some warning so that you dont get completely stranded. david poole european performance dallas tx 2149567007.

Thank you for the info on a problem like this,you must have had to change a few recently?But first I will replace the idle air dist. lines.and go on from there. thank you for your response,j-n-t

Replaced the rpm sensor car fired and ran though not smooth,so I put my little allen wrench into the slot for adjustment of the fuel,drove into town washed the car and drove home,the ABS light would flash and soon after the check Eng.light would come on pulling into our drive it stalled and it will not relight,PS we have great spark at the coil post,top of distributor.

Have you checked the voltage while the engine is running at operating temperature? Some of your symptoms rang a bell with previous problems that I have had. Voltage regulator is cheap and easy to inspect as are tightening ground connections and cleaning battery teminals and connections. If you have any built up crud/oxidation on you battery connections, check out the cheap and easy stuff first.

Patrick

Marty, started the car this morning it fired with out hesitation, it began to roll after Short time not long enough time for a complete warm up,I unplugged the EHA it smoothed out like a well tuned machine at around 700 RPM,soon as I plugged up the EHA she stalled but re-lit with no hesitation,retried the same test and got the same results,just-n-time