Very Good.

Most guys just back off when it comes to swings , but once you look around and take each section at a time , it's petty basic stuff.
I have a simple axle centering measure tool design that can be made from some copper pipe/fittings over at the 113 site archieves ..it uses the chassis geometric points for reference and works well.
..anyone following this thread can find it there or PM me on it.
I posted it there b/c the 3:27 diff from the 108/4.5 is becoming a popular swap/choice for the 113 crowd, so the tool comes in handy when doing the swap...

Arthur - I checked my manuals, but I don't have anything that addresses the 4.5 axle shafts. My TDMs are '63 and '69 - before the 4.5 came out. My 108/8 Service Manual doesn't give me the axle lengths. So I don't know if the 4.5 axles will fit a 113.043. If you are asking in regards to my quest posted on the Pagoda Forum, I have a set enroute.

Very Good.

Hope the new ones are straight..
I will just hold on to these til someone needs one [ maybe even me !!!]

Now that you have given me the lengths. I will just measure them .
You mentioned length from the flange face .. I am assuming you mean the outer face , correct??
Tnx

Yes Arthur, from the outer face where the wheel makes contact. You can run a narrow tape measure through the large hole in the flange to get an accurate measurment. How many splines do the 4.5 axles have.

Interestingly, I spoke with Gernold Nisius about my axles. He tells me that many if not most used axles are bent. He didn't seem to bothered by the readings I got, but I have been chasing a high speed vibration for many years and with the flange runout I am seeing, the tire runout is well beyond M-B specs. So, we will see. I really do drive my SL very hard and as fast as I can get away with, so the vibration is an important issue for me. I hope she runs as smooth as it did before this all started.

Thanks,
I thought you had measured from that face , but just like to be sure. I will check them .

On your axles , Gernold is The expert [ my place in NH was just over the border from him], but bent axles are bent axles .. if they don't spec out , you might be able to use them, but there are going to be consquences .. I sure wouldn't use them, specially with disc brakes. No disrespect....

I guess the key to getting through a huge job like restoring a car, is just to focus on one little thing at the time.

I have pictures of this W111 project from before restoration, it was a wreck and should probably have been used as parts car. I got it partly restored, po spend a fortune and a lot of time to just abandon it, but well, I guess I can get a good car out of it, eventually. Except for a small hole, all the rust is fixed, so it is mostly mechanical issues from here.

A link to your axle centering measure tool design would be welcome

I'll post some pictures of the latest work on the axle later.

Karsten

As promised, here is a little about latest work on the axle.

The cleaned axle half

Getting that &%¤ rust protection off and spotting an alarming rust problem (will be fixed later)

Rust problem


Masking before sand blast

More masking

After blasting


Another rust problem

Getting rust out

Taking the last rust with POR15 Metal Ready

Enlarging hole to find metal

Hole filed

Patching hole

Hole fixed

Adding metal to thin part

Finish on added metal

Backside shows proper welding

Backside of fixed hole

Well, that is it for today

Karsten

You have some time into that one..looks good.
We are spoiled here in the US .. is an axle gets rusted out , we just go to a boneyard and get another .. they are all over the place for short $$$$
Guess there was just more Benz over here than over there.

Anyway , here is the tool.. you just need a length of 1/2 copper pipe and 3 elbows, 1 T and some solder
The trick is to lay the measure out on a piece of plywood and then just put some screws in the wood where the tool ends go ..[ the screw heads should fit inside the tubing],- assemble the pieces ,then just solder it up and you are done..if you use that method, reverse the axle measures l/r on the ply as you will be making the tool upside down, so when inverted , it is correct.
To use the tool , you just place the 2 ends of the tool over the center bolts of the control arm step bearing points on your chassis, and the pointer will be where the center of the pivot bolt head should be .. just adjust the cross link adjuster til it is correct and you are there. [tol of +/- 2mm]
What is also nice is you can check centralization without even jacking up the car .
This is basically just a copy of the Benz rig.
If you can not make out the specs , enlarge it or ask me and I will post them
See ya
http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/113tool.jpg

I have several axles myself, this is just the only one with disc brakes. I might put in a 250 or 280 engine at some point, so it is good with the extra braking power.

Yes I guess you are pretty spoiled with good parts in Florida Anyway, it took me a couple of hours to fix the rust, so it is not too bad. Could have bought one from a bone yard as well, but it is also time and money.

Thanks for the hint about the tool.

Karsten

Got the axle halfs together today. It was quite a ***** to get the bronche discs into the fork of the right axle half.

Well, there is a problem, the new bushings are going real tight. I guess the bushings has been shrinking during the pressing procedure

Probably only thing to do is to take it apart again and get the bushings machined? Strange enough the service manual is not covering this procedure, so advice would be apreciated. Which tolerences should the bushings have?

Regards,
Karsten

Edit: Maybe this tool could be used to hone the bushings? www.brushresearch.com/Index.cfm/FuseAction/home.FlexHoneTools.htm

They are just tight from pressing them in.. IYou can use a little adjustable hand reamer .. same as you use for front kingpins.

Thanks Arthur, I'll have to find a set of those.

Karsten

You just measure the pivot pin diameter and get that size reamer .. they are adjustable around that diameter..
I see them on ebay all the time for $5-10..

Here is one , so you know what they look like. You can see how they get larger as you adjust/tighten the nut .. you drive them with a ratchet wrench.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-5-16-adjustable-reamer_W0QQitemZ7535389928QQcategoryZ25259QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

but could the axles be straightened? it seems to me they could.

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I'm not sure I understand the question? Bent axles are probably difficult to fix.

Karsten