What common problems do I need to look out for in this model.

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89 190E
2.6L
Arctic white
Grey leather
Sunroof
Pirelli P400 rubber
Smoked corners

I have a 560SEL and have been looking to add a 560SL to the family and I had some "lessons learned" from the first.

Don't let low milage fool you. My SEL is an '88 and has less than 70K miles on it. I bought it with less than 68K. The big thing is to know how it was maintained. Find out what type of oil is/was used. If Pennzoil/Quaker State/Random 85-cent per quart oil, RUN AND DON'T LOOK BACK!!! If the owner will let you, take off the air filter housing and valve cover, and inspect the top of at least one of the heads. This will show you how much varnish is there. If it's abnormally dark RUN!

Other than the engine work I've had to due to poor quality of maintainance, I love the way my 560SEL performs. Its comfortable, smooth, and has pleanty of power for my tastes (of course I'm also a dieseler, my other car being a '78 300CD) Make sure the car was well taken care of and enjoy.

Some hints to clue you in to possible engine problems:

Have the current owner start the car for you while you watch the tail pipe. Do this after the car has been sitting for at least 2 hours. If the engine is still warm from being run, then this symptom may be camoflauged. You're looking for a sudden and brief puff of blackish smoke which will diffuse quickly. You will not see it if you're in the driver's seat. If you see this quick puff, make a mental note and take the car for a test drive. When you're done, repeat with the engine warm. If the puff does not re-occur, then it is likely the valve-stem seals need to be replaced. It can also be valve guides. If you take it to a mechanic, it could be anywhere from $500 to $4,000 for repairs depending on new seals only or a complete valve job.

There are plenty of resources for how involved those two jobs are online, so I won't duplicate, however, if you need a point in the right direction, just ask and I'll post some links.

Good luck and I hope it works out!


Scott

Brand of oil would not have made my list, even long list, of things to consider - or to not buy the car if its had Penzoil or Quaker State. Around here those are pushing $2 a quart and are considered premium brands. There are 117 motors out there that have gone hundreds of thousands of miles on such oil.

I think there's a simplier question - i.e. are you going to work on the car yourself? If you are going to work on it yourself, and enjoy it, the mechanical condition of the car is less important than the cosmetics - paint and interior. If you're not going to work on it yourself, I'd say you shouldn't be buying it. It's a 15 year old car that needs regular maintenance and repair. Parts have gotten quite expensive with the value of the dollar and labor continues to climb. These can be very expensive cars to maintain when you turn the job over to someone else. They really aren't viable transportation compared to a newer car. Maintaining them is especially expensive in the context of the market value of the car which is steadily marching towards nil.

I think it's catch 22 on a 15 year old Mercedes these days - if you don't know the car you should get a PPI. But if you need a PPI you really shouldn't be buying it.

It depends on how it has been maintained. Are there service records? Has the PO done everything to maintain the car? Was there preventive work done or did they wait until something broke before addressing the problem?

I bought my 420SEL, which is basically like the 560, a little over 3 years ago. I have been doing little odds and ends to it since - usually something every couple of months or so. I have been doing these things either myself or with the help of a friend who is a MB tech.

If you can do some things yourself it won't be as expensive to maintain if you have to have someone do everything for you (don't mean to make a brainless comment to insult your intelligence - after all, you are considering a Mercedes ).

If the car has had the timing chain, tensioner, and guide rails done recently then you are in good shape. Another thing to worry about on this model is the hydraulic suspension in the rear. Does the car "squat" in the rear? If it does, walk away because it means work to the rear $u$pen$ion. Valve stem seals and valve guides are another "weakness" of this motor. The bottom end of these engines are usually "bulletproof" and don't require anything until several hundred thousand miles.

mileage?
Prior care, service records?
Then we can really clue you in
Other than that an awesome car that I would love to get my hands on, especially a nice example
Good luck let us know

__________________
Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace

One important thing: check the rear self-levelling suspension!!!

U.S. 560 SELs had this system setup as standard and it could be very expensive $$$ to fix.

Basically, check the ride and see if it is not unsually bumpy at the back. Check for hydraulic fluid leaks and proper pump operation.

Also, check all electrical systems (windows, seats -front AND rear-, radio and antenna, sunroof, etc). Non operational systems can also be very expensive to fix.

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A. Rosich
CL 500, 1998
S 500 L, 1998
E 320 T, 1995 [Sadly sold ]

Deanyel-

The only reason I mentioned the oil thing is the excessive sludge that was in my car's heads from being run on Pennzoil. I'm surprised those two oils are considered premium anywhere (I'm not trying to be argumentative) unless you're talking about their "premium" "synthetic" "other marketing buzzword" blends. Here in Denver they're pretty cheap, and expensive is Mobil-1 for $4 a quart. I'm not a fan of parafin-rich oils, but this is not the thread to get into it.

The big thing to consider is how much varnish is there, and the type of oil used can contribute to this. When I took my 560's heads into the machine shop that does all the head work/valve jobs for the largest indy and one of the dealerships, the guy asked me how many miles the engine had on it. I told him 70K, and his responce was "That looks about like 270K" having mis-heard me. When I corrected him he was shocked and asked me if it was pennzoil or quaker state. Someone who does ~5 mercedes valve jobs a week reacting like that spoke volumes to me on brands of oil.

Anyway, the owner letting you take off a valve cover would be big. Since getting the SEL I've decided I want a 560SL as well. I won't seriously consider another 560 without seeing under the valve covers. If necessary take the car to a mechanic and have them take the cover off. If you have a digital camera, take a pic and I'll be happy to give you an idea how it ranks on the clean-filthy scale if you can't tell yourself. I'm sure many people around will be happy to help on that too! Let us know how it went!


Good Luck!


Scott

Timing chain and guides. Also, check the ball joint boots and toe rod ends for splits. There is a rod that goes from the lower control arm back to a chassis mounted bracket. There is a flexible joint in the bracket with a small rubber boot. Check that for splits or holes as well. Check the exhaust for leaks. Brake pads, rust, dirty engine compartment...

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.