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#1
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ticking noise
okay gang -
I posted here a couple months ago about my wife's 97 E420 ticking on idle - you suggested I check the oil bridges, etc. According to the local dealerhip, this wasn't the problem - after they replaced 2 lifters and the problem continuing, they have decided that it must be the crankshaft hitting the lifters - they are recommending a new crankshaft and all new lifters - does this sound right?? This bill would be astro-freaking-nomical!!! |
#2
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Run from that dealer or Repairman
A crankshaft cannot hit lifters and the engine still run at all. That's just a load of BS to get your money. OR you did not understand what they told you ? Don't allow them to work on it. Re-check on the oil tubes that are under the valve covers...there is a lot of info on that problem, (causing ticking and low oil pressure), here on this forum. Do a search.
DW |
#3
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Check my web page . . .
under Menu #19 to see the details of the 'tick-tick' due to broken oil tube.
Not sure what the milage is on the '97 E420 but there's a few things that I would recommend that you try to see if you can fix it yourself first. 1) Check the oil-tubes yourself or have somebody do it for you while you are there. If you have low oil pressure at idle, then I strongly suggest that you check those tubes. It's a SURE sign of a bad tube or tubes! 2) If the tubes are ok, you may want to try this. Purchase a can (1 qt) of engine flush just before you have your oil changed. This is best done at a "drive-thru" oil change shop. Idle that car at high idle 800-1000 rpm until the tick-tick stops; could take 20 minutes or so. If it's a plugged lifter, this should remove the engine sludge and allow it to open to retain oil albeit temporarily. Drain the oil and refill with your normal oil. 3) If the tick returns, it's probably because there's some engine deposits that need to be removed. Check out "Auto-RX" website at the following link: http://www.auto-rx.com/ I've used this product and endorse it 100%. It's a unique formulation that WILL clean the engine deposits. Follow the procedure. Briefly it's added to the oil with a fresh oil change and stays in up to 1000 miles depending on how much 'crud' is in the engine. All the details are on the site. If it's a BAD (mechanically "bad") lifter, this procedure will probably NOT fix it. But in that engine, I've YET to see a bad one; just usually 'plugged' due to engine sludge. This procedure will not only clean the engine but you will experience "new engine" performance again and no tick-tick. This will not cost you any significant amount of $$$, so you have nothing to loose. |
#4
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mileage on 97 e420
wow - thx for the replies guys -
the car has 91M on it - mechanically, it's top notch - super clean and it runs like a champ, except for the tic-tic-tic. I printed off the service announcement I got from a link on this forum regarding the oil bridges and gave it to the service advisor (MB dealership) and asked him (again) to check if that is the problem - still nothing. I'm no mechanic, but it seems to me that if you were needing to replace your camshaft and all the lifters the problems I would be experiencing would far outweight a little ticking noise. Anyway - thx for all your help so far - any suggestions are mucho appreciated. |
#5
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Yes, exactly right . . .
replacing the camshaft entials the same amount of detailed work that it takes to replace the lifter: you MUST remove the camshaft to replace the lifters so it if the camshaft(s) are bad, then it's the same amount of work. But, of course, much more expensive.
But, for one last time, I don't think that you need to do that. My procedure in the last post is worth a try; just start with 2) and finish with 3). However, you will WASTE a lot of time if there is a BAD tube. |
#6
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I have seen 119"s with ticking comming from worn cams, yes the bridges are good, then very possibe it can come from worn cams, you would need to do the cams and lifters.
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