I am changing the rear pads on my 300e and was hoping to get some advice on which pads to use that won't squeek. The one's on there now are from autozone, and the squeeking was the worst I've ever had in my life. I was embarased to stop the car.
Any advice, please!

First, the only thing I buy for the Benz at autozone is fluids, brand name only. Nothing else, not even spark plugs!

Pagid, Textar, other OEM pads will not squeal. Stop better, too!. PBR Metalmasters are supposed to not squeal if you use the antisqueal shims (sold separately), but I don't have any presonal experience, use if you want.

You can buy them online at FastLane or at any good import parts store. Do not use store brands or anything else, please.

when changing pads, you must do two things no one ever tells you about:

You must clean any surface the pad backing plate touches completely, all the dust and corrosion has to be gone. A small brass brush works well for the slots or caliper sides. Get it all off.

Second, when you install the pads, you must coat the sides of the backing plate where they touch the caliper with antisieze compound (also known as antisqueal paste or MB brake paste). This prevents thems sticking. You also need some on the back of the pad where it hits the piston. Don't use silicone sealant, it won't help a bit.

On the front calipers on most W124 chassis cars, the caliper is a floating design where the outer part sits on two pins and slides in and out. This part must move ONLY directly in and out -- any side play and you need to replace the pins and bushings the caliper slides on, or it will rattle, squeal, and wear the pads funny in a taper. They must also move easily and smoothly. Inspect the little boots on each pin -- they must be flexible, intact, and tight. If in doubt, replace or the calipers will either refuse to slide, or more likely, drag.

Make sure the two little "ears" (springs) are under the caliper, or they will scream, too!

On the rears, use antisieze on the pins where they contact the spring, and on the spring where it sits on the pads.

Finally, make SURE the rotors are thick enough -- you can usually run two sets of pads on a rotor -- after that, they are too thin to re-use. Easy way to tell is if they have a distinct lip at the edge were the pads don't cover. If this lip is obvious, replace the rotors.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

PBR DeLuxe (NOT Metalmasters).

Duke

from a local Pepboys and my car squealed like a stuck pig. I ended up getting some pads for free from my MB mechanic friend. He even gave me some of the MB antisieze compound.

Since that time I will never buy pads from any of the generic autoparts stores.

__________________
Frank
84 500SEL EURO 101K ( JUST LIKE MY 1ST WIFE. GLAD TO GET RID OF HER! )
85 300D 310K (sold)
90 350SDL 184K sold
83 300D 118K (sold)
88 300E 153k (sold)
93 400E 105K (sold)